Autosport Labs - User contributions [en]

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2020-06-09T20:09:00Z

Jpf11:

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

==='''Revision History'''===
2020-06-09 Updated Tasker settings to include killing of RaceCapture app during shutoff. This was necessary because later versions of the app keep the screen on even when in the background.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below. My Samsung Tab A 10.1 can last about 100 days on a full charge!).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, SecureTask,RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''IMPORTANT''': Secure Settings broke critical operations in the 1.3.6u1 release in Jan 2019. For full functionality you must use the older 1.3.6 release. You can find a copy here: [https://secure-settings.en.uptodown.com/android/download/222045]. If this link is dead try googling for "Secure Settings Android apk" and finding this specific version. To install an apk on your android device you'll need to navigate to the source website on your tablet then download, and in your settings enable installation of apps from unknown sources (which varies from OS version to version, so google how to do it on your particular device and OS version).

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

''Edit'' - If you want to keep your WiFi networks configured on your device you might be able to get away with opening their advanced settings and disabling auto connection. Should work, I just haven't tested it. I personally just played it safe by forgetting all but the RaceCapture network to avoid unexpected connections.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: App -> Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Plugin -> Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Plugin -> Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"
Action 3: App-> Launch App
Configuration: App: Race Capture app

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Plugin -> Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home (type it in the Filter to find it)
Configuration: Page 0

Action 3: Plugin -> SecureTask -> Manage Apps
Configuration: Type: Soft kill, App: com.autosportlabs.racecapture

Action 4: Plugin -> DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 5: Display Timeout (type it in the Filter to find it) (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 8 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

Battery Full - I added this because some Android tablets stop charging when at 100% and this prevents triggering via the Power Any profile above. There may be a more elegant way to merge the two but this was my quick fix. When the battery is at full charge, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then select Power, and then "Battery Full". Next, hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2020-06-09T20:06:41Z

Jpf11: /* Setting up your Android Device */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below. My Samsung Tab A 10.1 can last about 100 days on a full charge!).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, SecureTask,RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''IMPORTANT''': Secure Settings broke critical operations in the 1.3.6u1 release in Jan 2019. For full functionality you must use the older 1.3.6 release. You can find a copy here: [https://secure-settings.en.uptodown.com/android/download/222045]. If this link is dead try googling for "Secure Settings Android apk" and finding this specific version. To install an apk on your android device you'll need to navigate to the source website on your tablet then download, and in your settings enable installation of apps from unknown sources (which varies from OS version to version, so google how to do it on your particular device and OS version).

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

''Edit'' - If you want to keep your WiFi networks configured on your device you might be able to get away with opening their advanced settings and disabling auto connection. Should work, I just haven't tested it. I personally just played it safe by forgetting all but the RaceCapture network to avoid unexpected connections.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: App -> Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Plugin -> Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Plugin -> Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"
Action 3: App-> Launch App
Configuration: App: Race Capture app

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Plugin -> Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home (type it in the Filter to find it)
Configuration: Page 0

Action 3: Plugin -> SecureTask -> Manage Apps
Configuration: Type: Soft kill, App: com.autosportlabs.racecapture

Action 4: Plugin -> DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 5: Display Timeout (type it in the Filter to find it) (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 8 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

Battery Full - I added this because some Android tablets stop charging when at 100% and this prevents triggering via the Power Any profile above. There may be a more elegant way to merge the two but this was my quick fix. When the battery is at full charge, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then select Power, and then "Battery Full". Next, hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2019-08-08T19:50:44Z

Jpf11:

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below. My Samsung Tab A 10.1 can last about 100 days on a full charge!).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''IMPORTANT''': Secure Settings broke critical operations in the 1.3.6u1 release in Jan 2019. For full functionality you must use the older 1.3.6 release. You can find a copy here: [https://secure-settings.en.uptodown.com/android/download/222045]. If this link is dead try googling for "Secure Settings Android apk" and finding this specific version. To install an apk on your android device you'll need to navigate to the source website on your tablet then download, and in your settings enable installation of apps from unknown sources (which varies from OS version to version, so google how to do it on your particular device and OS version).

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

''Edit'' - If you want to keep your WiFi networks configured on your device you might be able to get away with opening their advanced settings and disabling auto connection. Should work, I just haven't tested it. I personally just played it safe by forgetting all but the RaceCapture network to avoid unexpected connections.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

Battery Full - I added this because some Android tablets stop charging when at 100% and this prevents triggering via the Power Any profile above. There may be a more elegant way to merge the two but this was my quick fix. When the battery is at full charge, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then select Power, and then "Battery Full". Next, hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-04-03T01:01:00Z

Jpf11: /* Setting up your Android Device */ added Battery Full profile for Tasker to cover for some android tablets not triggering the Power Any profile if they are at 100% battery even when USB power is provded.

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below. My Samsung Tab A 10.1 can last about 100 days on a full charge!).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

''Edit'' - If you want to keep your WiFi networks configured on your device you might be able to get away with opening their advanced settings and disabling auto connection. Should work, I just haven't tested it. I personally just played it safe by forgetting all but the RaceCapture network to avoid unexpected connections.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

Battery Full - I added this because some Android tablets stop charging when at 100% and this prevents triggering via the Power Any profile above. There may be a more elegant way to merge the two but this was my quick fix. When the battery is at full charge, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then select Power, and then "Battery Full". Next, hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture-Track

2018-03-06T15:56:45Z

Jpf11: /* Automating use of Tablets/Phones for a Dashboard display */

=Start it up=
[[image:RaceCapture_QuickReference.png|500px]]

==Plug it in==
Unpackage the RaceCapture system and included cable.

* Plug one end of the cable into the RaceCapture unit
* Plug the other end of the cable into your car's OBDII port.
* Place the RaceCapture unit on your dashboard with clear view of the sky. Position the system so it's square to the car's axis.

[[image:RCT_in_hand.jpg|640px]]

==Download the app==
===On Mobile===
* [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autosportlabs.racecapture&hl=en Google Play]
* [https://www.amazon.com/Autosport-Labs-Race-Capture/dp/B016ZJM7GE Amazon App Store]
* Apple iOS app store (coming soon)

* '''Not sure what tablet to use? ''' [[RaceCapture_App_recommended_tablets|See our list of recommended tablets]]
===Windows / OSX===
*''' Windows 10 and OSX''': No drivers are needed for OSX or Windows 10.
*'''Windows XP, 7, 8''': See the driver installation [[RaceCapture_Quickstart#Microsoft_Windows_7.2F8_Driver_installation|instructions below.]]

==Connect to your RaceCapture system==
In your mobile device WiFI settings, connect to the RaceCapture WiFi network.
* By default, RaceCapture will setup a WiFi network starting with 'RaceCapture', with no password. You can immediately connect to this network.

Once you've connected to the RaceCapture WiFi network, launch the RaceCapture app.

===Verifying Connectivity===
The RaceCapture app will guide you through a brief automated setup and tour. During this process the connection to RaceCapture will be verified.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZrx4w1Y_rc}}

==System Status==

Access the system status pages through the top left menu. The system status offers information on GPS status, current WiFi state and more. You can also get a copy of the RaceCapture application log for diagnostics.

[[image:RaceCapture_status_page.png|640px]]

==Dashboard Mode==
To view your dashboard, touch the dashboard option on the main screen.

[[image:RC_app_dash_screenshot.png|640px]]
===Customizing a gauge===
Most gauges can be customized for the channel and setting visual alerts. Touch the gauge you wish to customize, select the channel you wish to monitor and optionally configure alerts.

===Navigating dashboard screens===
You can navigate between dashboard screens by swiping left or right, or press the arrow buttons in the lower corners of the screen.

===Track mapping and predictive lap timing===
RaceCapture offers predictive lap timing, which relies on a robust track detection system leveraging hundreds of track maps worldwide.

[[image:RaceCapture_trackmap_browser.png|640px]]

====How it works====
* When GPS receives a lock, RaceCapture will search for a nearby track.
* If a track is detected with one configuration, it is automatically selected.
* If a track is detected with multiple configurations, the RaceCapture app will prompt you for which configuration you're using.
* If no tracks are detected nearby, the RaceCapture app will offer the ability to create a track on the spot.
** If you're not able to immediately create the track, you can do so later under '''Setup'''.
* '''Track not found?''' [[RaceTracks|Submit the track to us]] and we'll get it into our online database.

[[image:RaceCapture_create_custom_track.png|640px]]

==Setup Mode==
You can configure all of RaceCapture's options under the setup page.

When the RaceCapture app detects the connected hardware, it will read the current setup from the device.
* The setup information is presented as a series of pages, by topic.
* When you change something on a setup page, you'll need to '''Write''' the changes back to the unit - they do not take effect immediately.

[[Image:racecapture_setup_buttons.png]]

===Explanation of buttons===
* '''Save''': Save the current RaceCapture setup to a file, for backup.
* '''Open''': Load a previously saved setup file.
* '''Read''': Read the current setup from the RaceCapture device.
* '''Write''': Writes any updated changes back to the RaceCapture device. '''Note: when you see the write button glowing / pulsing, it means there are pending changes to write back to the RaceCapture device'''

===Race Tracks===
On the RaceTracks page you can create a custom track, which will be included in the library of track maps for automatic detection. To create a custom track, turn off 'Automatic race track detection' and then press the add (+) button. You will be presented with an option to create a circuit or Autocross (point-point) style course. Follow the on-screen instructions to create your track.

[[image:RaceCapture_select_track_type.png|640px]]

===GPS===
The GPS page allows you to adjust the GPS sample rate and enable/disable various channels.
* '''Note:''' We highly recommend you keep the default channels enabled for proper operation of analysis and lap timing.
* 10Hz is the recommended sample rate for the best balance of performance / accuracy. [[RaceCapturePro2_GPS|Getting the best GPS performance]]

===Race Timing===
These enable the lap timer and predictive lap timer. Leave these 'on' to enable these features.

===Analog Sensors===
RaceCapture has one analog sensor that measures current battery voltage. The default 1Hz is the recommended sample rate. To disable, set the sample rate to 'Disabled'.

* '''Note:''' Normally you would not need to adjust these settings.

===Accel / Gyro===
The recommended mounting orientation for RaceCapture is square with the chassis.
* You can re-map channels by re-assigning the physical axis to the mapped channel.
* Once defined, you can calibrate the accelerometer + gyro by pressing the calibrate button, and then pressing the '''write''' button to write the calibration back to RaceCapture.

[[image:RaceCapture_imu_config.png|640px]]

===CAN bus===
For OBDII operation, ensure the CAN bus is set to '''On'''.
* Common baud rates for OBDII are 500K and 250K. The default is 500K, which applies to nearly every CAN OBDII vehicle.

[[image:RaceCapture_CAN_config.png|640px]]

===OBDII===
You can select from a standard list of OBDII channels on the OBDII configuration screen.

[[image:RaceCapture_OBDII_config.png|640px]]
====Selecting sample rates====
For channels that require a faster response rate, like RPM and TPS, we recommend 10, 25 or 50Hz. More slowly changing channels like EngineTemperature should be set to 1 or 5Hz.

* '''Note about unsupported channels:''' If your ECU does not support a channel, the value will remain at 0. RaceCapture will time-out waiting for a response from the ECU, which will affect the performance of other channels. We recommend removing all unsupported channels to ensure optimal OBDII performance.

===Wireless===
You can configure RaceCapture's WiFi for both '''Access Point''' and '''Client''' mode.

[[image:RaceCapture_WiFi_config.png|640px]]
====Client Mode====
To enable client mode, specify the SSID and password for the network you wish to connect to and turn the client mode switch to '''on'''

====Access Point Mode====
To enable the RaceCapture access point, specify the SSID and a password.
* '''Note:''' If specified, passwords must be minimum of 8 characters. Leave the field blank to create an open network.

===Real-time Telemetry===
[[image:podium.png|thumb|200px]]
You can live-stream your data to [http://podium.live Podium ] so you can compare and share laps and runs with your friends as well as [[Podium_Driver_Data_Analysis| analyze your data in Podium to become a faster driver]]

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/WzHsdU1.gif" width="640"/>

====Enabling Telemetry====
* Create an account on [http://podium.live Podium] and create a device ID.
* Enter the provided device ID into the telemetry configuration page of your RaceCapture app
* Enable the telemetry option in the top level application preferences.

[[image:RaceCapture_telemetry_config.png|640px]]

When telemetry is broadcasting, you will see a green cloud icon in the application toolbar.

=====Notes about Android devices=====

* '''Hotspot mode''': Older versions of Android will lose their internet connection when connected to a WiFi network that doesn't provide an internet connection. This is a common issue when connecting to WiFi enabled cameras such as GoPros and other WiFi enabled devices. Fortunately, iOS and newer versions of Android have the smarts to detect this condition and keep the cellular connection active, but older versions of Android will require an different approach.

If you have a device that loses it's internet connection when connected to RaceCapture's WiFi network, you can solve this by enabling a hot spot on your device, and then configuring RaceCapture's WiFi interface by enabling the client configuration to connect to your hotspot, effectively reversing the connection. Once RaceCapture is configured to connect to your hotspot, it will automatically connect whenever your hotspot is turned on, and then you'll be able to broadcast telemetry to Podium.

===Logs===
To view the log messages provided by the RaceCapture unit, you can enable the '''Poll log''' check box. You can copy the current log to the clipboard by pressing the '''Copy''' button.
* '''Note:''' These logs are useful for diagnosing issues with your RaceCapture unit.

==Analysis Mode==
RaceCapture will automatically record your session in the background while in dashboard mode. To view the data, enter the '''Analysis''' mode and load an existing session. The session will be automatically named with the local track or with a timestamp.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hi9nA2N87RY}}

===Reviewing Laps===
If the data contains lap times, the laps will be shown in the dropdown list on the right. Select the laps you wish to compare; the '''Speed''' channel is selected by default.
* '''Comparing additional channels''': You can review additional channels by pressing the gear icon on the line chart.

===Navigating data===
Swipe across the data to compare various points correlated with the position on the track map.
* '''Zooming''' you can zoom the chart using a two-finger pinch gesture, or using the mouse scroll wheel or your laptop's trackpad scroll feature.

===Selecting time vs distance===
You can switch between time and distance data comparison by accessing the chart options, or pressing the -> or clock icon in the line chart.

===Reviewing raw data===
If your data contains no laps, such as data from a static test or dyno pull, the data will be present in one entry under the loaded session. Select this entry to view the data. The RaceCapture app will auto-select the '''Time''' dimension if it detects no significant distance traveled within the data.

===Comparing laps / runs between sessions===
You can compare data between sessions if they are in a coinciding location - just load multiple sessions and select laps between those sessions.

==Exporting Data==
You can export your sessions from your list of saved sessions.

===RaceRender===
See the [[RaceCapture_RaceRender|RaceRender guide]] on how to create videos using RaceCapture data
===Importing to 3rd party software===

The RaceCapture log file format is plain CSV, which can be imported into 3rd party software.

* '''RaceRender''' provides native support for the RaceCapture log file format.
* '''DashWare''' has been used by RaceCapture customers - Rowan Hick has a write-up on [https://www.rowanhick.com/2016/01/07/racecapture-pro-dashware-win Dashware integration].

==Applying Decals==
Install the included decals on your car in prominent locations - for a guaranteed +5 HP!

[[image:chris_wynne_asl.jpg|640px]]

=More=

==Alternative ways to power==
===Automating use of Tablets/Phones for a Dashboard display===
See this guide here: [[RaceCapture_Dashboard_Tablet_Automation|Automating Tablets/Phones for use as Dashboards Guide]]

===USB===
You can power RaceCapture using the included USB cable, plugged into your car's USB charger.
* You can optionally power RaceCapture from a battery like the kind you would use to recharge a phone (1000 mAh or higher recommended)

===Custom Cable===
You can build a custom cable for power and CAN bus using a standard CAT-5 ethernet cable with an RJ45 connector. Wire up using

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center; width:700px; height:200px;"
|+ Power, ground and CAN bus connections
|-
! Connection
! RaceCapture (RJ45 cable)
|-
| +12v
| Brown
|-
| Ground
| Orange/White
|-
| CAN 1 High
| Orange
|-
| CAN 1 Low
| Green/White
|}

'''Note:''' These color codes assume EIA-T568B RJ45 cable (check printing on the cable to confirm)

[[File:RCT_RJ45_CAN.png|200px]]

==Microsoft Windows 7/8 Driver installation==
* Download and unzip drivers: [https://autosportlabs-software.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/RaceCapturePro_drivers_winXPVista7_V2.zip Windows XP/Vista/7/8 Drivers V2]
** '''Note for Windows 8 users''' - These drivers are unsigned. You will need to disable the driver signing requirement for Windows 8, or upgrade to Windows 10. [https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/disabling-driver-signature-on-windows-8/disabling-signed-driver-enforcement-on-windows-8 Instructions]
*** [http://www.howtogeek.com/167723/how-to-disable-driver-signature-verification-on-64-bit-windows-8.1-so-that-you-can-install-unsigned-drivers/ Win8 64bit unsigned driver instructions]
* Plug RaceCapture/Pro in to the computer.
* If prompted to install a driver, direct Windows to the folder where you unzipped the RaceCapture/Pro drivers.
* If not prompted, manually update driver:
** Open Windows Device Manager and find the '''Ports (COM and LPT)''' section. RaceCapture/Pro should be listed there, possibly with a yellow (!) over the icon.
** Right click and select 'Update Driver'.
** Follow the instructions and direct Windows to the folder where you unzipped the RaceCapture/Pro drivers.

==Recovering from mis-configured WiFi==
If you're unable to connect via mobile due to a WiFi configuration issue - for example:
* You forgot the password you set for RaceCapture's Access Point
* If RaceCapture's WiFi client needs to be re-configured for a new WiFi network
* You just accidentally messed something up

You can recover by re-configuring RaceCatpure's WiFi settings via the USB connection and the Windows or OSX app.

Steps to recover:
* Launch the RaceCapture app on Windows or OSX
* Connect RaceCapture via USB
* Allow the software to connect and read the configuration
* Under Setup, adjust the WiFi settings as needed
* Write the configuration back to RaceCapture

Once you update the settings, it's recommended you test the WiFi connection using your mobile device while still connected over USB so you can further adjust settings as needed.

RaceCapture-Track

2018-03-06T15:56:30Z

Jpf11: /* More */

=Start it up=
[[image:RaceCapture_QuickReference.png|500px]]

==Plug it in==
Unpackage the RaceCapture system and included cable.

* Plug one end of the cable into the RaceCapture unit
* Plug the other end of the cable into your car's OBDII port.
* Place the RaceCapture unit on your dashboard with clear view of the sky. Position the system so it's square to the car's axis.

[[image:RCT_in_hand.jpg|640px]]

==Download the app==
===On Mobile===
* [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autosportlabs.racecapture&hl=en Google Play]
* [https://www.amazon.com/Autosport-Labs-Race-Capture/dp/B016ZJM7GE Amazon App Store]
* Apple iOS app store (coming soon)

* '''Not sure what tablet to use? ''' [[RaceCapture_App_recommended_tablets|See our list of recommended tablets]]
===Windows / OSX===
*''' Windows 10 and OSX''': No drivers are needed for OSX or Windows 10.
*'''Windows XP, 7, 8''': See the driver installation [[RaceCapture_Quickstart#Microsoft_Windows_7.2F8_Driver_installation|instructions below.]]

==Connect to your RaceCapture system==
In your mobile device WiFI settings, connect to the RaceCapture WiFi network.
* By default, RaceCapture will setup a WiFi network starting with 'RaceCapture', with no password. You can immediately connect to this network.

Once you've connected to the RaceCapture WiFi network, launch the RaceCapture app.

===Verifying Connectivity===
The RaceCapture app will guide you through a brief automated setup and tour. During this process the connection to RaceCapture will be verified.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZrx4w1Y_rc}}

==System Status==

Access the system status pages through the top left menu. The system status offers information on GPS status, current WiFi state and more. You can also get a copy of the RaceCapture application log for diagnostics.

[[image:RaceCapture_status_page.png|640px]]

==Dashboard Mode==
To view your dashboard, touch the dashboard option on the main screen.

[[image:RC_app_dash_screenshot.png|640px]]
===Customizing a gauge===
Most gauges can be customized for the channel and setting visual alerts. Touch the gauge you wish to customize, select the channel you wish to monitor and optionally configure alerts.

===Navigating dashboard screens===
You can navigate between dashboard screens by swiping left or right, or press the arrow buttons in the lower corners of the screen.

===Track mapping and predictive lap timing===
RaceCapture offers predictive lap timing, which relies on a robust track detection system leveraging hundreds of track maps worldwide.

[[image:RaceCapture_trackmap_browser.png|640px]]

====How it works====
* When GPS receives a lock, RaceCapture will search for a nearby track.
* If a track is detected with one configuration, it is automatically selected.
* If a track is detected with multiple configurations, the RaceCapture app will prompt you for which configuration you're using.
* If no tracks are detected nearby, the RaceCapture app will offer the ability to create a track on the spot.
** If you're not able to immediately create the track, you can do so later under '''Setup'''.
* '''Track not found?''' [[RaceTracks|Submit the track to us]] and we'll get it into our online database.

[[image:RaceCapture_create_custom_track.png|640px]]

==Setup Mode==
You can configure all of RaceCapture's options under the setup page.

When the RaceCapture app detects the connected hardware, it will read the current setup from the device.
* The setup information is presented as a series of pages, by topic.
* When you change something on a setup page, you'll need to '''Write''' the changes back to the unit - they do not take effect immediately.

[[Image:racecapture_setup_buttons.png]]

===Explanation of buttons===
* '''Save''': Save the current RaceCapture setup to a file, for backup.
* '''Open''': Load a previously saved setup file.
* '''Read''': Read the current setup from the RaceCapture device.
* '''Write''': Writes any updated changes back to the RaceCapture device. '''Note: when you see the write button glowing / pulsing, it means there are pending changes to write back to the RaceCapture device'''

===Race Tracks===
On the RaceTracks page you can create a custom track, which will be included in the library of track maps for automatic detection. To create a custom track, turn off 'Automatic race track detection' and then press the add (+) button. You will be presented with an option to create a circuit or Autocross (point-point) style course. Follow the on-screen instructions to create your track.

[[image:RaceCapture_select_track_type.png|640px]]

===GPS===
The GPS page allows you to adjust the GPS sample rate and enable/disable various channels.
* '''Note:''' We highly recommend you keep the default channels enabled for proper operation of analysis and lap timing.
* 10Hz is the recommended sample rate for the best balance of performance / accuracy. [[RaceCapturePro2_GPS|Getting the best GPS performance]]

===Race Timing===
These enable the lap timer and predictive lap timer. Leave these 'on' to enable these features.

===Analog Sensors===
RaceCapture has one analog sensor that measures current battery voltage. The default 1Hz is the recommended sample rate. To disable, set the sample rate to 'Disabled'.

* '''Note:''' Normally you would not need to adjust these settings.

===Accel / Gyro===
The recommended mounting orientation for RaceCapture is square with the chassis.
* You can re-map channels by re-assigning the physical axis to the mapped channel.
* Once defined, you can calibrate the accelerometer + gyro by pressing the calibrate button, and then pressing the '''write''' button to write the calibration back to RaceCapture.

[[image:RaceCapture_imu_config.png|640px]]

===CAN bus===
For OBDII operation, ensure the CAN bus is set to '''On'''.
* Common baud rates for OBDII are 500K and 250K. The default is 500K, which applies to nearly every CAN OBDII vehicle.

[[image:RaceCapture_CAN_config.png|640px]]

===OBDII===
You can select from a standard list of OBDII channels on the OBDII configuration screen.

[[image:RaceCapture_OBDII_config.png|640px]]
====Selecting sample rates====
For channels that require a faster response rate, like RPM and TPS, we recommend 10, 25 or 50Hz. More slowly changing channels like EngineTemperature should be set to 1 or 5Hz.

* '''Note about unsupported channels:''' If your ECU does not support a channel, the value will remain at 0. RaceCapture will time-out waiting for a response from the ECU, which will affect the performance of other channels. We recommend removing all unsupported channels to ensure optimal OBDII performance.

===Wireless===
You can configure RaceCapture's WiFi for both '''Access Point''' and '''Client''' mode.

[[image:RaceCapture_WiFi_config.png|640px]]
====Client Mode====
To enable client mode, specify the SSID and password for the network you wish to connect to and turn the client mode switch to '''on'''

====Access Point Mode====
To enable the RaceCapture access point, specify the SSID and a password.
* '''Note:''' If specified, passwords must be minimum of 8 characters. Leave the field blank to create an open network.

===Real-time Telemetry===
[[image:podium.png|thumb|200px]]
You can live-stream your data to [http://podium.live Podium ] so you can compare and share laps and runs with your friends as well as [[Podium_Driver_Data_Analysis| analyze your data in Podium to become a faster driver]]

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/WzHsdU1.gif" width="640"/>

====Enabling Telemetry====
* Create an account on [http://podium.live Podium] and create a device ID.
* Enter the provided device ID into the telemetry configuration page of your RaceCapture app
* Enable the telemetry option in the top level application preferences.

[[image:RaceCapture_telemetry_config.png|640px]]

When telemetry is broadcasting, you will see a green cloud icon in the application toolbar.

=====Notes about Android devices=====

* '''Hotspot mode''': Older versions of Android will lose their internet connection when connected to a WiFi network that doesn't provide an internet connection. This is a common issue when connecting to WiFi enabled cameras such as GoPros and other WiFi enabled devices. Fortunately, iOS and newer versions of Android have the smarts to detect this condition and keep the cellular connection active, but older versions of Android will require an different approach.

If you have a device that loses it's internet connection when connected to RaceCapture's WiFi network, you can solve this by enabling a hot spot on your device, and then configuring RaceCapture's WiFi interface by enabling the client configuration to connect to your hotspot, effectively reversing the connection. Once RaceCapture is configured to connect to your hotspot, it will automatically connect whenever your hotspot is turned on, and then you'll be able to broadcast telemetry to Podium.

===Logs===
To view the log messages provided by the RaceCapture unit, you can enable the '''Poll log''' check box. You can copy the current log to the clipboard by pressing the '''Copy''' button.
* '''Note:''' These logs are useful for diagnosing issues with your RaceCapture unit.

==Analysis Mode==
RaceCapture will automatically record your session in the background while in dashboard mode. To view the data, enter the '''Analysis''' mode and load an existing session. The session will be automatically named with the local track or with a timestamp.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hi9nA2N87RY}}

===Reviewing Laps===
If the data contains lap times, the laps will be shown in the dropdown list on the right. Select the laps you wish to compare; the '''Speed''' channel is selected by default.
* '''Comparing additional channels''': You can review additional channels by pressing the gear icon on the line chart.

===Navigating data===
Swipe across the data to compare various points correlated with the position on the track map.
* '''Zooming''' you can zoom the chart using a two-finger pinch gesture, or using the mouse scroll wheel or your laptop's trackpad scroll feature.

===Selecting time vs distance===
You can switch between time and distance data comparison by accessing the chart options, or pressing the -> or clock icon in the line chart.

===Reviewing raw data===
If your data contains no laps, such as data from a static test or dyno pull, the data will be present in one entry under the loaded session. Select this entry to view the data. The RaceCapture app will auto-select the '''Time''' dimension if it detects no significant distance traveled within the data.

===Comparing laps / runs between sessions===
You can compare data between sessions if they are in a coinciding location - just load multiple sessions and select laps between those sessions.

==Exporting Data==
You can export your sessions from your list of saved sessions.

===RaceRender===
See the [[RaceCapture_RaceRender|RaceRender guide]] on how to create videos using RaceCapture data
===Importing to 3rd party software===

The RaceCapture log file format is plain CSV, which can be imported into 3rd party software.

* '''RaceRender''' provides native support for the RaceCapture log file format.
* '''DashWare''' has been used by RaceCapture customers - Rowan Hick has a write-up on [https://www.rowanhick.com/2016/01/07/racecapture-pro-dashware-win Dashware integration].

==Applying Decals==
Install the included decals on your car in prominent locations - for a guaranteed +5 HP!

[[image:chris_wynne_asl.jpg|640px]]

=More=

==Alternative ways to power==
===Automating use of Tablets/Phones for a Dashboard display===
See this guide here: *[[RaceCapture_Dashboard_Tablet_Automation|Automating Tablets/Phones for use as Dashboards Guide]]

===USB===
You can power RaceCapture using the included USB cable, plugged into your car's USB charger.
* You can optionally power RaceCapture from a battery like the kind you would use to recharge a phone (1000 mAh or higher recommended)

===Custom Cable===
You can build a custom cable for power and CAN bus using a standard CAT-5 ethernet cable with an RJ45 connector. Wire up using

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center; width:700px; height:200px;"
|+ Power, ground and CAN bus connections
|-
! Connection
! RaceCapture (RJ45 cable)
|-
| +12v
| Brown
|-
| Ground
| Orange/White
|-
| CAN 1 High
| Orange
|-
| CAN 1 Low
| Green/White
|}

'''Note:''' These color codes assume EIA-T568B RJ45 cable (check printing on the cable to confirm)

[[File:RCT_RJ45_CAN.png|200px]]

==Microsoft Windows 7/8 Driver installation==
* Download and unzip drivers: [https://autosportlabs-software.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/RaceCapturePro_drivers_winXPVista7_V2.zip Windows XP/Vista/7/8 Drivers V2]
** '''Note for Windows 8 users''' - These drivers are unsigned. You will need to disable the driver signing requirement for Windows 8, or upgrade to Windows 10. [https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/disabling-driver-signature-on-windows-8/disabling-signed-driver-enforcement-on-windows-8 Instructions]
*** [http://www.howtogeek.com/167723/how-to-disable-driver-signature-verification-on-64-bit-windows-8.1-so-that-you-can-install-unsigned-drivers/ Win8 64bit unsigned driver instructions]
* Plug RaceCapture/Pro in to the computer.
* If prompted to install a driver, direct Windows to the folder where you unzipped the RaceCapture/Pro drivers.
* If not prompted, manually update driver:
** Open Windows Device Manager and find the '''Ports (COM and LPT)''' section. RaceCapture/Pro should be listed there, possibly with a yellow (!) over the icon.
** Right click and select 'Update Driver'.
** Follow the instructions and direct Windows to the folder where you unzipped the RaceCapture/Pro drivers.

==Recovering from mis-configured WiFi==
If you're unable to connect via mobile due to a WiFi configuration issue - for example:
* You forgot the password you set for RaceCapture's Access Point
* If RaceCapture's WiFi client needs to be re-configured for a new WiFi network
* You just accidentally messed something up

You can recover by re-configuring RaceCatpure's WiFi settings via the USB connection and the Windows or OSX app.

Steps to recover:
* Launch the RaceCapture app on Windows or OSX
* Connect RaceCapture via USB
* Allow the software to connect and read the configuration
* Under Setup, adjust the WiFi settings as needed
* Write the configuration back to RaceCapture

Once you update the settings, it's recommended you test the WiFi connection using your mobile device while still connected over USB so you can further adjust settings as needed.

RaceCapture-Pro MK3

2018-03-06T15:54:21Z

Jpf11: /* Guides */

=Overview=
RaceCapture/Pro MK3 is our latest generation motorsports telemetry system, packed with features for Endurance Racing, Sprint Racing, Autocross, Time Attack and more.

===Product Brief===
Download [[Image:download-pdf-90x90.jpg|32px|link=https://www.autosportlabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/RaceCaptureProMK3productbrief.pdf]]

[[Image:RaceCapturePro_MK3.jpg|link=RaceCapturePro_MK3|500px]] [[Image:add_to_cart.png|link=https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapturepro-mk3/]]

[[Image:MK3_molex_wiring.jpg|500px]]

=Guides=
* '''[[RaceCapture-Pro_MK3#Quick_Start|Jump to quick start guide]]'''
* [[RacecapturePro_MK3_hardware_install|Hardware Installation guide]]
* [[RaceCapture_real_time_telemetry|Real-time Telemetry guide]]

* [[RaceCaptureLoggingData|Logging Data]]
* [[RCP_CAN|CAN bus / ECU sensor guide]]

* [[AIM_Integration_CAN_Mapping|AIM Integration guide using CAN Mapping]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_Lua_Scripting|Lua scripting guide]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_Lua_Scripting_Examples|Lua script examples]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_Sensors|Sensor guide]]
*[[SensorX|SensorX sensor breakout board assembly guide]]
*[[CoilX|CoilX Tach interface to ignition coils guide]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_GoProWiFi|GoPro control guide]]
*[[RaceCapture_troubleshooting|General troubleshooting guide]]
*[[RaceCapture_DashWare_Guide|Creating video with RCP data overlay using DashWare]]
*[[RaceCapture_RaceRender_Guide|Exporting to RaceRender guide]]

*[[Podium_Driver_Data_Analysis|Data Analysis in Podium to become a faster driver]]
*[[RaceCapture_Dashboard_Tablet_Automation|Automating Tablets/Phones for use as Dashboards Guide]]

=How To=
*[[RaceCapturePro2_Enable_Predictive_Timing|How to: enable Predictive Timing]]
*[[RaceTracks|How to: Submit a new race track]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_Calibrate_Sensor|How to: calibrate and configure an analog sensor]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_OBD2|How to: enable OBD2 channels]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_ShiftLights|How to: enable sequential shift lights]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_GPS|How to: get best GPS data]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_How_To_Update_Firmware|How to update firmware]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_FAQ|More FAQs and How-To's]]

==By Car==
*[[RaceCapturePro2_vehicle_guide|Vehicle Guide]]

==By Sensor Type==
*[[RaceCapturePro2_RPM|RPM]]'''

==Reference==
*[[RaceCapturePro2_logfile_reference|Log file reference]]

==More Information==
*[https://github.com/autosportlabs Source code]

=Quick Start=
==Powering Up==
[[Image:RaceCapturePro_MK3_powering_options.png]]
===Using optional OBDII cable (2008+ vehicles)===
* Plug one end of the cable into the RaceCapture unit
* Plug the other end of the cable into your car's OBDII port.
* Power and OBDII data will be provided to RaceCapture/Pro.

===Powering via 12v===
Connect 12-24v and Ground to the connections on the rear molex terminal block using the indicated connections.

===Testing on the Bench===
You can power RaceCapture/Pro with just the included USB cable. Simply plug one end into your computer, and the other end into the USB connection on the front of the unit.
* '''Note''': When powering only with USB, the voltage reference output will only be at approximately 4.7 volts, which can cause a mis-reading of sensor values. When precise sensor readings are required, provide 12v power directly via the main connector.

==Launch the RaceCapture app==
*[https://podium.live/software Windows and OSX RaceCapture Apps]
===On Mobile===
[[image:google_play_amazon_itunes_app_store.png]]

* [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autosportlabs.racecapture&hl=en Google Play]
* [https://www.amazon.com/Autosport-Labs-Race-Capture/dp/B016ZJM7GE Amazon App Store]
* [https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/racecapture/id1162797255?mt=8 iTunes]

* '''Not sure what tablet to use? ''' [[RaceCapture_App_recommended_tablets|See our list of recommended tablets]]

==Connect to your RaceCapture system==
===Bluetooth (Android Only)===
In Android Settings, pair your device with the RaceCapturePro bluetooth adapter.
* '''Note''': Default bluetooth pin is 1234. You can change this later under the '''Wireless''' setup in the RaceCapture app.

===WiFi (iOS or Android)===
In your mobile device WiFI settings, connect to the RaceCapture WiFi network.
* By default, RaceCapture will setup a WiFi network starting with 'RaceCapture', with no password. You can immediately connect to this network.

Once the Wireless configuration is set up, launch the RaceCapture app.

===Verifying Connectivity===
The RaceCapture app will guide you through a brief automated setup and tour. During this process the connection to RaceCapture/Pro will be verified.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZrx4w1Y_rc}}

===Windows / OSX===
[https://podium.live/software Download and install] the latest version of the RaceCapture software.

====Windows Requirements====
* Open GL 2.0 graphics support is required

=====USB Drivers=====
*''' Windows 10''': Windows 10 has built in drivers that support RaceCapture. No separate driver installation needed.
* '''Windows XP, 7 or 8'''
** '''USB driver installation''': A USB driver will need to be installed. See the driver installation [[RaceCapture_Quickstart#Microsoft_Windows_7.2F8_Driver_installation|instructions below.]]

====OSX====
* '''USB drivers''': OSX has built in drivers that support RaceCapture. No separate driver installation needed.

====Connecting and running====

Once the RaceCapture software is installed, plug RaceCapture/Pro into your computer via USB, then launch the RaceCapture software.

==RaceCapture App Tour==

===System Status===
Access the system status pages through the top left menu. The system status offers information on GPS status, current WiFi state and more. You can also get a copy of the RaceCapture application log for diagnostics.

[[image:RaceCapture_status_page.png|640px]]

===Dashboard Mode===
To view your dashboard, touch the dashboard option on the main screen.

[[image:RC_app_dash_screenshot.png|640px]]
====Customizing a gauge====
Most gauges can be customized for the channel and setting visual alerts. Touch the gauge you wish to customize, select the channel you wish to monitor and optionally configure alerts.

====Navigating dashboard screens====
You can navigate between dashboard screens by swiping left or right, or press the arrow buttons in the lower corners of the screen.

====Track mapping and predictive lap timing====
RaceCapture/Pro offers predictive lap timing, which relies on a robust track detection system leveraging hundreds of track maps worldwide.

[[image:RaceCapture_trackmap_browser.png|640px]]

=====How it works=====
* When GPS receives a lock, RaceCapture will search for a nearby track.
* If a track is detected with one configuration, it is automatically selected.
* If a track is detected with multiple configurations, the RaceCapture app will prompt you for which configuration you're using.
* If no tracks are detected nearby, the RaceCapture app will offer the ability to create a track on the spot.
** If you're not able to immediately create the track, you can do so later under '''Setup'''.
* '''Track not found?''' [[RaceTracks|Submit the track to us]] and we'll get it into our online database.

[[image:RaceCapture_create_custom_track.png|640px]]

===Setup Mode===
You can configure all of RaceCapture's options under the setup page.

When the RaceCapture app detects the connected hardware, it will read the current setup from the device.
* The setup information is presented as a series of pages, by topic.
* When you change something on a setup page, you'll need to '''Write''' the changes back to the unit - they do not take effect immediately.

[[Image:racecapture_setup_buttons.png]]

====Explanation of buttons====
* '''Save''': Save the current RaceCapture setup to a file, for backup.
* '''Open''': Load a previously saved setup file.
* '''Read''': Read the current setup from the RaceCapture device.
* '''Write''': Writes any updated changes back to the RaceCapture device. '''Note: when you see the write button glowing / pulsing, it means there are pending changes to write back to the RaceCapture device'''

====Race Tracks====
On the Race Tracks page you can create a custom track, which will be included in the library of track maps for automatic detection. To create a custom track, turn off 'Automatic race track detection' and then press the add (+) button. You will be presented with an option to create a circuit or Autocross (point-point) style course. Follow the on-screen instructions to create your track.

[[image:RaceCapture_select_track_type.png|640px]]

====GPS====
The GPS page allows you to adjust the GPS sample rate and enable/disable various channels.
* '''Note:''' We highly recommend you keep the default channels enabled for proper operation of analysis and lap timing.
* 10Hz is the recommended sample rate for the best balance of performance / accuracy. [[RaceCapturePro2_GPS|Getting the best GPS performance]]

====Race Timing====
These enable the lap timer and predictive lap timer. Leave these 'on' to enable these features.

====Analog Sensors====
Here you can configure and calibrate your analog sensors.

====Accel / Gyro====
The recommended mounting orientation for RaceCapture is square with the chassis.
* You can re-map channels by re-assigning the physical axis to the mapped channel.
* Once defined, you can calibrate the accelerometer + gyro by pressing the calibrate button, and then pressing the '''write''' button to write the calibration back to RaceCapture.

[[image:RaceCapture_imu_config.png|640px]]

====CAN bus====
For OBDII operation, ensure the CAN bus is set to '''On'''.
* Common baud rates for OBDII are 500K and 250K. The default is 500K, which applies to nearly every CAN OBDII vehicle. AIM CAN is 1M.

[[image:RaceCapture_CAN_config.png|640px]]

====OBDII====
You can select from a standard list of OBDII channels on the OBDII configuration screen.

[[image:RaceCapture_OBDII_config.png|640px]]
=====Selecting sample rates=====
For channels that require a faster response rate, like RPM and TPS, we recommend 10, 25 or 50Hz. More slowly changing channels like EngineTemperature should be set to 1 or 5Hz.

* '''Note about unsupported channels:''' If your ECU does not support a channel, the value will remain at 0. RaceCapture will time-out waiting for a response from the ECU, which will affect the performance of other channels. We recommend removing all unsupported channels to ensure optimal OBDII performance.

====Wireless====
You can configure RaceCapture's WiFi for both '''Access Point''' and '''Client''' mode.

[[image:RaceCapture_WiFi_config.png|640px]]
=====Client Mode=====
To enable client mode, specify the SSID and password for the network you wish to connect to and turn the client mode switch to '''on'''

=====Access Point Mode=====
To enable the RaceCapture access point, specify the SSID and a password.
* '''Note:''' If specified, passwords must be minimum of 8 characters. Leave the field blank to create an open network.

====Real-time Telemetry====
[[image:podium.png|thumb|200px]]
You can live-stream your data to [http://podium.live Podium] so you can compare and share laps and runs with your friends.

* [[RaceCapture_real_time_telemetry|RaceCapture real time telemetry setup guide]]

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/WzHsdU1.gif" width="640"/>

=====Enabling Telemetry=====
* Create an account on [http://podium.live Podium] and create a device ID.
* Enter the provided device ID into the telemetry configuration page of your RaceCapture app
* Enable the telemetry option in the top level application preferences.

[[image:RaceCapture_telemetry_config.png|640px]]

====Diagnostic Logs====
To view the log messages provided by the RaceCapture unit, you can enable the '''Poll log''' check box. You can copy the current log to the clipboard by pressing the '''Copy''' button.
* '''Note:''' These logs are useful for diagnosing issues with your RaceCapture unit.

===Analysis Mode===
RaceCapture will automatically record your session in the background while in dashboard mode. To view the data, enter the '''Analysis''' mode and load an existing session. The session will be automatically named with the local track or with a timestamp.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hi9nA2N87RY}}

====Reviewing Laps====
If the data contains lap times, the laps will be shown in the dropdown list on the right. Select the laps you wish to compare; the '''Speed''' channel is selected by default.
* '''Comparing additional channels''': You can review additional channels by pressing the gear icon on the line chart.

====Navigating data====
Swipe across the data to compare various points correlated with the position on the track map.
* '''Zooming''' you can zoom the chart using a two-finger pinch gesture, or using the mouse scroll wheel or your laptop's trackpad scroll feature.

====Selecting time vs distance====
You can switch between time and distance data comparison by accessing the chart options, or pressing the -> or clock icon in the line chart.

====Reviewing raw data====
If your data contains no laps, such as data from a static test or dyno pull, the data will be present in one entry under the loaded session. Select this entry to view the data. The RaceCapture app will auto-select the '''Time''' dimension if it detects no significant distance traveled within the data.

====Comparing laps / runs between sessions====
You can compare data between sessions if they are in a coinciding location - just load multiple sessions and select laps between those sessions.

====Exporting Data====
You can export your sessions from your list of saved sessions.

====Importing to 3rd party software====

The RaceCapture log file format is plain CSV, which can be imported into 3rd party software.

* '''RaceRender''' provides native support for the RaceCapture log file format. See the [[RaceCapture_RaceRender_Guide|exporting to RaceRender guide]].
* '''DashWare''' has been used by RaceCapture customers - Rowan Hick has a write-up on [https://www.rowanhick.com/2016/01/07/racecapture-pro-dashware-win Dashware integration].

===Applying Decals===
Install the included decals on your car in prominent locations.

[[image:chris_wynne_asl.jpg|640px]]

RaceCapture-Apex

2018-03-06T15:54:09Z

Jpf11: /* Guides */

=Overview=
RaceCapture/Apex is a pro-motorsports grade real-time telemetry system with mission-critical features.

[[Image:RaceCapture_Apex.jpg|500px]]
[[Image:add_to_cart.png|link=https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecaptureapex/]]

=Product Brief=
Download full specifications and features [[Image:download-pdf-90x90.jpg|32px|link=https://www.autosportlabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/RaceCaptureApexproductbrief.pdf]]

[[Image:RaceCaptureApex_3quarter.jpg|500px]]

[[Image:RaceCapture_Apex_end_500.jpg|500px]]

=Guides=
* '''[[RaceCapture-Apex#Quick_Start|Jump to quick start guide]]'''
* [[RacecaptureApex_hardware_install|Hardware Installation guide]]
* [[RaceCapture_real_time_telemetry|Real-time Telemetry guide]]

* [[RCP_CAN|CAN bus / ECU sensor guide]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_Lua_Scripting|Lua scripting guide]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_Sensors|Sensor guide]]
*[[SensorX|SensorX sensor breakout board assembly guide]]
*[[CoilX|CoilX Tach interface to ignition coils guide]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_GoProWiFi|GoPro control guide]]
*[[RaceCapture_troubleshooting|General troubleshooting guide]]
*[[Podium_Driver_Data_Analysis|Data Analysis in Podium to become a faster driver]]
*[[RaceCapture_Dashboard_Tablet_Automation|Automating Tablets/Phones for use as Dashboards Guide]]

=How To=
*[[RaceTracks|How to: Submit a new race track]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_Calibrate_Sensor|How to: calibrate and configure an analog sensor]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_OBD2|How to: enable OBD2 channels]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_ShiftLights|How to: enable sequential shift lights]]
*[[RaceCapturePro2_GPS|How to: get best GPS data]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_How_To_Update_Firmware|How to update firmware]]
*[[RaceCapture_RaceRender_Guide|How to export to RaceRender]]
*[[RaceCapturePro_FAQ|More FAQs and How-To's]]

==By Car==
*[[RaceCapturePro2_vehicle_guide|Vehicle Guide]]

==By Sensor Type==
*[[RaceCapturePro2_RPM|RPM]]'''

==Reference==
*[[RaceCapturePro2_logfile_reference|Log file reference]]

==More Information==
*[https://github.com/autosportlabs Source code]

=Quick Start=
==Powering Up==

===Powering via 12v===
Connect 12-24v and Ground to the connections on the connector according to the pinout in the [[RacecaptureApex_hardware_install]|ardware installation guide]].

[[file:RaceCaptureApex_power_pinout.png|700px]]

===Testing on the Bench===
You can power RaceCapture/Apex with just the included USB cable. Simply plug one end into your computer, and the other end into the USB connection on the rear of the unit behind he access door.
* '''Note''': When powering only with USB, the voltage reference output will only be at approximately 4.7 volts, which can cause a mis-reading of sensor values. When precise sensor readings are required, provide 12v power directly via the main connector.

==Launch the app==
===On Mobile===
[[image:google_play_amazon_itunes_app_store.png]]

* [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autosportlabs.racecapture&hl=en Google Play]
* [https://www.amazon.com/Autosport-Labs-Race-Capture/dp/B016ZJM7GE Amazon App Store]
* [https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/racecapture/id1162797255?mt=8 iTunes]

* '''Not sure what tablet to use? ''' [[RaceCapture_App_recommended_tablets|See our list of recommended tablets]]

==Connect to your RaceCapture system==
===Bluetooth (Android Only)===
In Android Settings, pair your device with the RaceCapturePro bluetooth adapter.
* '''Note''': Default bluetooth pin is 1234. You can change this later under the '''Wireless''' setup in the RaceCapture app.

===WiFi (iOS or Android)===
In your mobile device WiFI settings, connect to the RaceCapture WiFi network.
* By default, RaceCapture will setup a WiFi network starting with 'RaceCapture', with no password. You can immediately connect to this network.

Once the Wireless configuration is set up, launch the RaceCapture app.

===Verifying Connectivity===
The RaceCapture app will guide you through a brief automated setup and tour. During this process the connection to RaceCapture/Apex will be verified.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZrx4w1Y_rc}}

===Windows / OSX===
[https://podium.live/software Download and install] the latest version of the RaceCapture software.

====Windows Requirements====
* Open GL 2.0 graphics support is required

=====USB Drivers=====
*''' Windows 10''': Windows 10 has built in drivers that support RaceCapture. No separate driver installation needed.
* '''Windows XP, 7 or 8'''
** '''USB driver installation''': A USB driver will need to be installed. See the driver installation [[RaceCapture_Quickstart#Microsoft_Windows_7.2F8_Driver_installation|instructions below.]]

====OSX====
* '''USB drivers''': OSX has built in drivers that support RaceCapture. No separate driver installation needed.

====Connecting and running====

Once the RaceCapture software is installed, plug RaceCapture/Apex into your computer via USB, then launch the RaceCapture software.

==RaceCapture App Tour==

===System Status===
Access the system status pages through the top left menu. The system status offers information on GPS status, current WiFi state and more. You can also get a copy of the RaceCapture application log for diagnostics.

[[image:RaceCapture_status_page.png|640px]]

===Dashboard Mode===
To view your dashboard, touch the dashboard option on the main screen.

[[image:RC_app_dash_screenshot.png|640px]]
====Customizing a gauge====
Most gauges can be customized for the channel and setting visual alerts. Touch the gauge you wish to customize, select the channel you wish to monitor and optionally configure alerts.

====Navigating dashboard screens====
You can navigate between dashboard screens by swiping left or right, or press the arrow buttons in the lower corners of the screen.

====Track mapping and predictive lap timing====
RaceCapture/Apex offers predictive lap timing, which relies on a robust track detection system leveraging hundreds of track maps worldwide.

[[image:RaceCapture_trackmap_browser.png|640px]]

=====How it works=====
* When GPS receives a lock, RaceCapture will search for a nearby track.
* If a track is detected with one configuration, it is automatically selected.
* If a track is detected with multiple configurations, the RaceCapture app will prompt you for which configuration you're using.
* If no tracks are detected nearby, the RaceCapture app will offer the ability to create a track on the spot.
** If you're not able to immediately create the track, you can do so later under '''Setup'''.
* '''Track not found?''' [[RaceTracks|Submit the track to us]] and we'll get it into our online database.

[[image:RaceCapture_create_custom_track.png|640px]]

===Setup Mode===
You can configure all of RaceCapture's options under the setup page.

When the RaceCapture app detects the connected hardware, it will read the current setup from the device.
* The setup information is presented as a series of pages, by topic.
* When you change something on a setup page, you'll need to '''Write''' the changes back to the unit - they do not take effect immediately.

[[Image:racecapture_setup_buttons.png]]

====Explanation of buttons====
* '''Save''': Save the current RaceCapture setup to a file, for backup.
* '''Open''': Load a previously saved setup file.
* '''Read''': Read the current setup from the RaceCapture device.
* '''Write''': Writes any updated changes back to the RaceCapture device. '''Note: when you see the write button glowing / pulsing, it means there are pending changes to write back to the RaceCapture device'''

====Race Tracks====
On the Race Tracks page you can create a custom track, which will be included in the library of track maps for automatic detection. To create a custom track, turn off 'Automatic race track detection' and then press the add (+) button. You will be presented with an option to create a circuit or Autocross (point-point) style course. Follow the on-screen instructions to create your track.

[[image:RaceCapture_select_track_type.png|640px]]

====GPS====
The GPS page allows you to adjust the GPS sample rate and enable/disable various channels.
* '''Note:''' We highly recommend you keep the default channels enabled for proper operation of analysis and lap timing.
* 10Hz is the recommended sample rate for the best balance of performance / accuracy. [[RaceCapturePro2_GPS|Getting the best GPS performance]]

====Race Timing====
These enable the lap timer and predictive lap timer. Leave these 'on' to enable these features.

====Analog Sensors====
Here you can configure and calibrate your analog sensors.

====Accel / Gyro====
The recommended mounting orientation for RaceCapture is square with the chassis.
* You can re-map channels by re-assigning the physical axis to the mapped channel.
* Once defined, you can calibrate the accelerometer + gyro by pressing the calibrate button, and then pressing the '''write''' button to write the calibration back to RaceCapture.

[[image:RaceCapture_imu_config.png|640px]]

====CAN bus====
For OBDII operation, ensure the CAN bus is set to '''On'''.
* Common baud rates for OBDII are 500K and 250K. The default is 500K, which applies to nearly every CAN OBDII vehicle.

[[image:RaceCapture_CAN_config.png|640px]]
====OBDII====
You can select from a standard list of OBDII channels on the OBDII configuration screen.

[[image:RaceCapture_OBDII_config.png|640px]]
=====Selecting sample rates=====
For channels that require a faster response rate, like RPM and TPS, we recommend 10, 25 or 50Hz. More slowly changing channels like EngineTemperature should be set to 1 or 5Hz.

* '''Note about unsupported channels:''' If your ECU does not support a channel, the value will remain at 0. RaceCapture will time-out waiting for a response from the ECU, which will affect the performance of other channels. We recommend removing all unsupported channels to ensure optimal OBDII performance.

====Wireless====
You can configure RaceCapture's WiFi for both '''Access Point''' and '''Client''' mode.

[[image:RaceCapture_WiFi_config.png|640px]]
=====Client Mode=====
To enable client mode, specify the SSID and password for the network you wish to connect to and turn the client mode switch to '''on'''

=====Access Point Mode=====
To enable the RaceCapture access point, specify the SSID and a password.
* '''Note:''' If specified, passwords must be minimum of 8 characters. Leave the field blank to create an open network.

====Real-time Telemetry====
[[image:podium.png|thumb|200px]]
You can live-stream your data to [http://podium.live Podium] so you can compare and share laps and runs with your friends.

* [[RaceCapture_real_time_telemetry|RaceCapture real time telemetry setup guide]]

<img src="http://i.imgur.com/WzHsdU1.gif" width="640"/>

=====Enabling Telemetry=====
* Create an account on [http://podium.live Podium] and create a device ID.
* Enter the provided device ID into the telemetry configuration page of your RaceCapture app
* Enable the telemetry option in the top level application preferences.

[[image:RaceCapture_telemetry_config.png|640px]]

====Diagnostic Logs====
To view the log messages provided by the RaceCapture unit, you can enable the '''Poll log''' check box. You can copy the current log to the clipboard by pressing the '''Copy''' button.
* '''Note:''' These logs are useful for diagnosing issues with your RaceCapture unit.

===Analysis Mode===
RaceCapture will automatically record your session in the background while in dashboard mode. To view the data, enter the '''Analysis''' mode and load an existing session. The session will be automatically named with the local track or with a timestamp.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hi9nA2N87RY}}

====Reviewing Laps====
If the data contains lap times, the laps will be shown in the dropdown list on the right. Select the laps you wish to compare; the '''Speed''' channel is selected by default.
* '''Comparing additional channels''': You can review additional channels by pressing the gear icon on the line chart.

====Navigating data====
Swipe across the data to compare various points correlated with the position on the track map.
* '''Zooming''' you can zoom the chart using a two-finger pinch gesture, or using the mouse scroll wheel or your laptop's trackpad scroll feature.

====Selecting time vs distance====
You can switch between time and distance data comparison by accessing the chart options, or pressing the -> or clock icon in the line chart.

====Reviewing raw data====
If your data contains no laps, such as data from a static test or dyno pull, the data will be present in one entry under the loaded session. Select this entry to view the data. The RaceCapture app will auto-select the '''Time''' dimension if it detects no significant distance traveled within the data.

====Comparing laps / runs between sessions====
You can compare data between sessions if they are in a coinciding location - just load multiple sessions and select laps between those sessions.

====Exporting Data====
You can export your sessions from your list of saved sessions.

====Importing to 3rd party software====

The RaceCapture log file format is plain CSV, which can be imported into 3rd party software.

* '''RaceRender''' provides native support for the RaceCapture log file format.
* '''DashWare''' has been used by RaceCapture customers - Rowan Hick has a write-up on [https://www.rowanhick.com/2016/01/07/racecapture-pro-dashware-win Dashware integration].

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-03-02T19:24:22Z

Jpf11: /* What do I get after doing everything here? */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below. My Samsung Tab A 10.1 can last about 100 days on a full charge!).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

''Edit'' - If you want to keep your WiFi networks configured on your device you might be able to get away with opening their advanced settings and disabling auto connection. Should work, I just haven't tested it. I personally just played it safe by forgetting all but the RaceCapture network to avoid unexpected connections.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-03-01T23:12:17Z

Jpf11: /* Setting up your Android Device */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

''Edit'' - If you want to keep your WiFi networks configured on your device you might be able to get away with opening their advanced settings and disabling auto connection. Should work, I just haven't tested it. I personally just played it safe by forgetting all but the RaceCapture network to avoid unexpected connections.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2018-02-27T18:08:56Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender */

= '''Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender''' =

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Screenshot showing what you can do with your RaceCapture data in RaceRender:'''

[[File:RaceRender Example Output.png]]

'''Source Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' Download the template/profile files referenced in this guide here and extract the files from the archive: [[File:RaceCapture and RaceRender workflow files.zip]]

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' Move the extracted file ''"Project - _6RaceCapture - basic template.rrt"'' to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''4.''' The other extracted file should be named with a filename like "RaceRender Data Profile - RaceCapture*.rrlc", including a date. Use the latest version present if there are multiple. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

[[File:RaceRender synchronization.png]]

Here are some tips to make this easier:
* Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
* Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
* If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input (shown in the examples at the top of this page). Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

[[File:RaceRender trimming.png]]

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

'''10.''' Check the output! I usually have to re-render my video about five times because I miss things or want to tweak things. I may have not quite syncrhonized the video, or maybe gauges were misaligned, or something. Always double/triple check the rendered output.

=== Known Issues ===
* If you find RaceRender performing terribly slow you may be affected by a timing issue in your RaceCapture log. Rarely, usually right in the beginning of a log if it happens, you can have timestamps that are.. out of order. Events that seem to go back in time. RaceRender expects all the timestamps to go in chronological order and when they don't it has a hard time processing the data. The fix is pretty easy. Open the logs and visually inspect the first page's worth of values in the "Utc" column. These values will be really large numbers as they are time in Unix epoch time, but they should normally go up in value (the value is the number of seconds since I believe a date in the 70s, I forget and I'm a Unix professional :D). If you see any going out of order, you can re-order them or simply delete the entire lines since a handful of data lines won't affect your video rendering results much. Alternatively you can use the GEMS conversion script I wrote found in the Autosport Labs Forums here: https://forum.autosportlabs.com/viewtopic.php?t=3731. Just use the initial perl script conversion and use that output file as your input for RaceRender. This works because that script makes sure to re-order any out of order timestamped log entries. This isn't the first suggestion because using the script takes a bit of technical know-how with setting up a Windows Unix environment and getting packages like Perl.

--[[User:Jpf11|Jpf11]] ([[User talk:Jpf11|talk]]) 00:12, 23 June 2017 (UTC)

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-27T18:08:18Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-27T18:07:58Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])
[https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/ https://www.facebook.com/johnfreundracing/]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T23:28:47Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Disable Auto-Updating of Apps (Optional)'''

I highly recommend doing this because app updates can unexpectedly break things. You might decide to use your tablet or phone to connect to a local WiFi hotspot for internet access, and suddenly your device is pulling updates for the apps here and bam, something stops working but you need to be on track soon. I've had it happen to me. The most common is losing RaceCapture settings before.

Go into Google Play Store-> Settings and in the General section find "Auto-update apps" and set it to "Do not auto-update apps". This will mean any time you need to update anything you can do so by simply finding that app and clicking the Update button for it. Be VERY judicious with this, only update when you're absolutely sure it's necessary!

'''11. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T16:39:17Z

Jpf11: /* Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing conductive thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:35:59Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209])

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:34:35Z

Jpf11: /* Setting up your Android Device */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''* Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Root Guide:''' On this page https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-tab-a/how-to/root-t3674409 in the opening post's DOWNLOADS section download the files for the OS version and your model number (Setting->About to see this), and uncompress. Make sure you have the USB drivers installed which can be found here for Windows http://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/others/android-usb-driver-for-windows. You must have the above steps done, after which you will put your tablet into Odin mode by first powering completely off, then when off holding the Home, Volume Down, and Power buttons all at once until a screen prompt comes up warning you about some... stuff. Release the buttons then press Volume Up to bypass the warning, in which point you're now in Odin download mode (this might not be the exact name, I forget). Plug your tablet into your USB cable and your PC. Now from the first archive run the odin executable and make sure in the upper left a COM port is listed in blue (if it's all grey something's wrong, either you're not in Odin mode, the USB drivers aren't working, or perhaps your USB cable's not plugged in or broken). Click the AP button, find/select the tar.md5 also from this archive, then click Start. This will root your device, installing SuperSU. The process will show lots of text and eventually reboot your device. After rebooted you can go about adding back your Google account so you can download apps from the Play Store and then proceeding with this guide.

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:22:01Z

Jpf11: /* Hardwiring Power For Your Devices */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some form of USB input for a power supply. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:20:34Z

Jpf11: /* Setting up your Android Device */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:19:44Z

Jpf11: /* Hardwiring Power Lines */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power For Your Devices'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:19:10Z

Jpf11: /* What's this about? */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for walking you through automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power Lines'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2018-02-26T03:17:05Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender */

= '''Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender''' =

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Screenshot showing what you can do with your RaceCapture data in RaceRender:'''

[[File:RaceRender Example Output.png]]

'''Source Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' Download the template/profile files referenced in this guide here and extract the files from the archive: [[File:RaceCapture and RaceRender workflow files.zip]]

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' Move the extracted file ''"Project - _6RaceCapture - basic template.rrt"'' to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''4.''' The other extracted file should be named with a filename like "RaceRender Data Profile - RaceCapture*.rrlc", including a date. Use the latest version present if there are multiple. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

[[File:RaceRender synchronization.png]]

Here are some tips to make this easier:
* Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
* Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
* If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input (shown in the examples at the top of this page). Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

[[File:RaceRender trimming.png]]

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

'''10.''' Check the output! I usually have to re-render my video about five times because I miss things or want to tweak things. I may have not quite syncrhonized the video, or maybe gauges were misaligned, or something. Always double/triple check the rendered output.

=== Known Issues ===
* If you find RaceRender performing terribly slow you may be affected by a timing issue in your RaceCapture log. Rarely, usually right in the beginning of a log if it happens, you can have timestamps that are.. out of order. Events that seem to go back in time. RaceRender expects all the timestamps to go in chronological order and when they don't it has a hard time processing the data. The fix is pretty easy. Open the logs and visually inspect the first page's worth of values in the "Utc" column. These values will be really large numbers as they are time in Unix epoch time, but they should normally go up in value (the value is the number of seconds since I believe a date in the 70s, I forget and I'm a Unix professional :D). If you see any going out of order, you can re-order them or simply delete the entire lines since a handful of data lines won't affect your video rendering results much. Alternatively you can use the GEMS conversion script I wrote found in the Autosport Labs Forums here: https://forum.autosportlabs.com/viewtopic.php?t=3731. Just use the initial perl script conversion and use that output file as your input for RaceRender. This works because that script makes sure to re-order any out of order timestamped log entries. This isn't the first suggestion because using the script takes a bit of technical know-how with setting up a Windows Unix environment and getting packages like Perl.

--[[User:Jpf11|Jpf11]] ([[User talk:Jpf11|talk]]) 00:12, 23 June 2017 (UTC)

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:16:01Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) */

= '''Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones)''' =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for outlining tips and tricks for automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power Lines'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:14:56Z

Jpf11: /* What's this about? */

= Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for outlining tips and tricks for automating as much as possible the use of tablet/phone devices for use as RaceCapture dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power Lines'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:11:31Z

Jpf11: /* Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices */

= Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for outlining tips and tricks for automating as much as possible use of tablet/phone devices for use as Dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power Lines'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, and we are putting these devices in race environments where our hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T03:10:16Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) */

= Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

[[File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG|500px]]

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for outlining tips and tricks for automating as much as possible use of tablet/phone devices for use as Dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power Lines'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.
Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.
After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''

For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

=='''Extras'''==
==='''Tips & Tricks for Dashboard Devices'''===
'''* Use Cheap Cases for Mounts:''' For about any device, be it tablet or phone, you can likely find a very cheap snap-in plastic case that you can use as a mount for your device. I like to use cases like the one pictured to the right (which only cost me $7!), cut off the faux-leather cover, and attach them to my dash with self tapping screws, 3M Exterior Tape, etc. Voila, I have a super simple mount that is very sturdy, holds my device quite securely, let's me remove my device easily whenever I want, and cost me almost nothing. You can find many such cases on Amazon.com
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg|''[[Inexpensive Snap-in Case]]''
Image:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg|''[[Dashboard Mounting Example]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use any gloves by sewing metallic thread:''' Most touch-screens require electrical contact with your skin in order to work. This means when you have your racing gloves on, like we are prone to do when in our racing vehicles, we have to yank them off to mess with our dashboard tablet displays. You can fix this by using conductive thread to sew a connection from inside your glove to the outside providing an electrical connection from your fingertips to your screen. You can find conductive thread rather cheaply on Amazon.com.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Image:Conductive thread.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread]]''
Image:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg|''[[Conductive Thread sewn into a racing glove]]''
</gallery>

'''* Use Screen Protectors:''' Tablets and phones aren't cheap, but by putting these devices in race environments your hands (and gloves if you used the conductive thread!) can get dirty. Why scratch up your displays when for about $10 you can install a clear yet replaceable screen surface with which to work? It's cheap insurance for a device that you already spend a decent amount of money and time (this guide isn't short!) on.

File:Conductive thread sewn into racing glove.jpg

2018-02-26T03:09:07Z

Jpf11: Picture of conductive thread sewn into a racing glove for use with modern capacitive touch devices

Picture of conductive thread sewn into a racing glove for use with modern capacitive touch devices

File:Conductive thread.jpg

2018-02-26T02:59:37Z

Jpf11: Picture of conductive thread

Picture of conductive thread

File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash Mount with Tablet Case.jpg

2018-02-26T02:48:31Z

Jpf11: Example Dash Mount using a cheap Tablet Case

Example Dash Mount using a cheap Tablet Case

File:Dashboard Automation - Example Dash.JPG

2018-02-26T02:41:36Z

Jpf11: Example Dash with tablets and Phones

Example Dash with tablets and Phones

File:Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Case.jpg

2018-02-26T02:15:48Z

Jpf11: Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 case example

Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 case example

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T02:14:22Z

Jpf11: /* Setting up your Android Device */

= Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

PICTURE OF MY DASH

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for outlining tips and tricks for automating as much as possible use of tablet/phone devices for use as Dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power Lines'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"
Action 1: Launch App
Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"
Action2: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"
Action 1: Secure Settings
Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home
Configuration: Page 0
Action 3: DS Battery Saver
Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)
Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set. If you want to let the screens stay on for a little while longer, you can set this to whatever you like)

'''* Create Profiles:''' A profile defines when to execute tasks. Always click the + button in the Profiles tab to start creating a new Profile. Below are the profiles we'll be creating and how to do so.

Device Boot - This profile executes whenever the device has booted up, like when you power up your tablet getting ready to race. All it does is start up the RaceCapture app so that when we switch to it later it's ready to go rather than having to go through its bootup process.

After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on Event, then Filter for "Device Boot" and select it. Next, click on the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab, and once back select the "Start RC" task.

Power Any - When any external power source is supplied, such as USB power from a line in the car, we light up the display immediately, then we disable Airplane mode and make sure to start the RaceCapture app. Using only disabling of Airplane mode assumes Wifi or Bluetooth are enabled and set to automatically connect to the RaceCapture. The RaceCapture App keeps the screen on regardless of timeout settings.

After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any" and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Screen On and Start RC" task.

Not Power Any - When external power is not provided (like when the vehicle is off), we enable Airplane mode to save battery, go to the Home screen so the RaceCapture app doesn't keep the screen awake, force the Slumberer profile in the DS Battery Saver app so the tablet goes into deep sleep immediately rather than delayed to save max battery, and then reduce screen timeout to 7 seconds to also, surprise, save battery.

After clicking the + button to create a new profile click on State, then Filter for "Power". Next, leave Source set to "Any", click the checkbox for "Invert", and hit the back arrow in the upper left to get back to the Profiles tab. Once back select the "Go to Sleep" task.

'''9. RaceCapture app settings'''
This needs to be done separately on each device you'll be using. In the RaceCapture app itself you need to configure some settings and you should do so while connected to the RaceCapture device. While the above settings have now made your device turn off the screen quickly, if you just open the RaceCapture app the screen will stay on and you can execute the below steps.
* Skip any setup guides or anything you may be prompted. This usually happens if this is the first time opening the app.
* Click the three bars in the upper left to open the menu, then select '''Preferences'''.
* Set your "Startup screen" to "Dashboard".
* Click the three bars in the upper left again and now select Dashboard.
* On the Dashboard screen in the upper left below the three bars is a Gear icon. Click that to bring up Dashboard configuration.
* You'll be on the Behavior tab. Click on the Screens tab. On this screen you can select the dashboard layout(s) you wish to use. I typically pick one layout but also leave the Raw Channels enabled for troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure the Dashboard that is opened upon starting up the app will be the highest one you have selected in this list, so keep that in mind when choosing. Tap outside the configuration window to close it and go back to the dashboards.
* For each Dashboard you'll need to configure each gauge. Reference RaceCapture documentation for this.

'''10. Enabling Auto Boot when connected to power'''
For the future as I don't have my notes on this right now. The idea is that even if your device is dead, if you connect it to USB power like in your vehicle when it has sufficient charge it will automatically turn itself on, and then the rest of the automation will take effect. Helps cover when you forget to charge things but want your Dashboards working as fast as possible.

'''That's IT! Go plug your tablet or phone into your vehicle and get started!!!'''

== Extras ==
=== Tablet Mounting Tips ===

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-26T01:34:41Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) */

= Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) =
For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets, but theoretically possibly any on Android tablets as long as rooting of the device is possible.

Written by John Freund ([https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209 https://www.facebook.com/john.freund.209]

PICTURE OF MY DASH

==='''What's this about?'''===
Many RaceCapture owners use phones and tablets as display devices in their vehicles. I use them in my own race car. As displays they're great, but there are definitely some challenges:
* Have to turn on the screen every time I want to start using them which can be as simple as a home button press but often an unlock process.
* Have to make sure Bluetooth or Wifi is enabled AND has connected successfully to the RaceCapture device
* Have to open the RaceCapture App
* Have to manage the power of the devices, to make sure there's enough power and that they don't run out between sessions/races or even during one.
* Have to do all this AFTER the vehicle is running so the RaceCapture device is powered
* Often we're scrambling to prep other things like getting our safety gear on, steering wheels into place, etc.
* Touch screens aren't so easy to operate with safety gear on like racing gloves

We typically have to deal with the above every time we go out on track, and with every single device. Arguably manageable with one, but what if you have multiple? Time is critical moments before going out and saving every little bit gives you time to focus on the race ahead.

This page is for outlining tips and tricks for automating as much as possible use of tablet/phone devices for use as Dashboards.

'''Demonstration Video: (warning, it's pretty long!)'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul9FW9I9Exs}}

==='''What do I get after doing everything here?'''===
Glad you asked! Here's the end result of following this guide:

'''* Start your car and your dashboards start working automatically.''' When the vehicle power is enabled your devices will within a few seconds automatically turn on their displays, start RaceCapture, and display their configured dashboards (i.e. you're ready to go!)

'''* You won't really have to worry about how much charge your devices have.''' Devices should be charged at least a little (say 10%) before the start of the day, but otherwise you will not have to worry about power during the day as the devices will either be charging while driving or massively conserving power when not. Fully charged devices should be able to sit without charging for up to 30 days (this is how long my Nvidia Shield K1 lasts with the tweaks below).

==Automation Guide==
==='''Hardwiring Power Lines'''===
The automation in this guide assumes there is a switched USB power source for each device in the vehicle. This is used as a signal to the devices for all automation actions. While it's not critical that you provide hardwired power for your devices to use them as dashboards (you'll really need to the monitor their power levels), you'll have to manually trigger different behaviors like coming out of sleep, disabling airplane mode, and other things, and this guide will not cover such scenarios and you'll need to be a bit creative.

In order to minimize how much we have to worry about the charge in your devices it's a great idea to add some hardwired power lines in your car. This provides charging power while operating your vehicle which all but guarantees they won't die on you mid-session, but also means you likely won't have to take your devices out of your vehicle and charge them between sessions. Also it covers a worst case scenario where your devices aren't charged for an event as you can just turn on your vehicle's ACC and charge your devices for a short time before going out.

Most, if not all, tablets and phones take some for of USB input. These are DC devices but the operating voltage varies (5V for most, but USB-C can be as high as 20V). As such you need some sort of electrical converter to take your vehicle's operating voltage and step it to the voltage required by your device.

[[File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|DC 12V to 5V Micro USB Converter]]

Good news! Ebay has tons of options for such converters. My devices are all Micro-USB devices and take 5V inputs. My car has an operating voltage from around 12-14.5V (typically referred to as a 12V system, as that's the minimum operating voltage for the electronics). I went to ebay and searched with these keywords: "DC Converter 12V to 5V Micro USB" and this pulled up many great options. I opted for one like the below picture with a 90-degree connector so that the micro-usb cable routed more nicely with my dashboards.

Now I am going to assume if you have a RaceCapture, you don't really need much guidance as far as wiring devices into your vehicle. Keep in mind though to make sure wherever you draw your power for the converter that it is:

* Fused appropriately (suggest the maximum current rating of your converter)
* Is connected to a switched source (so you're not draining your vehicle's battery if you forget one of your devices in your vehicle).

==='''Setting up your Android Device'''===
'''1. Rooting your device'''
This is probably the hardest part and absolutely required as subsequent software is dependent on this. The processes vary between most devices, and can be fairly easy to tricky. Don't be scared though! Once you get past this it's smooth sailing!

With that said I then must add this guide can't really walk you through specifically how to root your device (unless you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 as I documented it while creating this page), since the procedures do vary. However, very intelligent and giving folks out there have figured out how to root just about every single Android device and documented how somewhere on the web. So you need to find a guide for doing this. Here are some tips:

'''* Search the web for the words "root", your phone model, and "xda-developers".''' You can find your phone's model number under Settings->About. The last key word is a forum where lots of rooting discussion takes place and is a great place to look for clear guides (though be warned, not all are perfect so make sure if you find a thread on rooting your phone you read the ENTIRE thread before starting!). However if you don't find what you're looking for there, remove that keyword and expand your search as that can uncover other pages.

'''* Enable Developer Mode and then the "OEM Unlock" option.''' Pretty much every root procedure requires this to start, even though some guides can forget to mention it. To enable Developer Mode, in your device go Settings->About, and then tap "Build number" repeatedly until you see a message on your screen that tells you Developer Mode is enabled. Now a new menu Settings->Developer Mode will appear, and within there is an option for "OEM Unlock" which you will need to enable.

'''* Disable Factory Reset Protection.''' This is critical as after parts of the rooting process your system can detect firmware tampering and reset itself. This is automatically enabled whenever you add a Google account, or some other account, that provides backup services. To disable it go to Settings->Accounts (I've seen it as "Clouds and Accounts" as well) and simply remove any accounts you've added. Don't worry, you can add them back later (you'll need to in order to download apps from the Google Play store).

'''2. Additional Root access.''' The app "SuperSU' that provides you root access has changed over the years and due to some changes the apps we're going to be using for automation can "think" your system isn't rooted. We need to trick them so they work properly. In order to do so we need to do some things:

'''* Download and install USB drivers for your device.''' Chances are for the rooting process you've already done this on your PC/laptop. If somehow you didn't, you'll need to do so for your particular OS. You should be able to web search for keywords including "USB drivers" and your phone's model designation (Settings->About). This enables your PC to communicate with your device which is needed for a later step.

'''* Download and Install Android SDK Platform Tools.''' Found here: [https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html]. This gives us a utility called "adb" that lets us connect to your device in a command line shell and then execute the necessary commands. Note for Windows Systems: You may need to right click the installation file and select "Run as Administrator" to get the installation to run properly (really doesn't hurt to do this so I would just go ahead and do so).

'''* Execute shell commands so apps know your device's OS is rooted.''' Make sure your laptop is connected to your device via a USB cable. On your PC, navigate in a shell or command prompt (on Windows hold the Windows key and press R, then type "cmd" and OK) then navigate to the installation path of the SDK. Hopefully you know how to move about your file system from a command prompt. In the SDK's directory run the following commands:
<nowiki>adb shell
su
mount -o rw,remount /system
touch /system/bin/su /system/xbin/su
mount -o ro,remount /system
exit
reboot</nowiki>

Alternatively it's possible to do the above from a shell on the device itself but if you wish to do that you're likely tech savvy and I don't need to walk you through it :)

'''3. Install the following apps from the Google Play Store: Deep Sleep Battery Saver, Secure Settings, Tasker, RaceCapture'''

Deep Sleep Battery Saver and Tasker require a small purchase, but last I checked it was only a few dollars each.

'''4. Android settings.'''

'''* Disable the lock screen.''' In Settings->Security set the Screen Lock to "none". Theoretically you probably can have this enabled to something, and have the Tasker app still unlock it automatically, but I instructions below assume you've disabled the lock so if you deviate you'll need to play around with the Tasker tasks (like adding a command to do the unlock before anything else on power/boot).

'''* Disable Auto Brightness.''' I find auto brightness to often enough leave the screen not so easily readable, so I choose to disable this, and set my brightness manually to max. You can obviously adjust the brightness level to adjust your vehicle's and the weather's conditions any time you like.

'''* Set up automatic connection to the RaceCapture.'''
Before we configure the apps to handle the automation make sure either Bluetooth or WiFi, whichever you'll be using to connect to your RaceCapture, is ON. This is because the automation assumes it's on and doesn't enable it for you (we just toggle Airplane mode when when disables restores whatever was enabled before Airplane mode was enabled).

'''- Bluetooth:''', go through the pairing process with your device and the RaceCapture (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). I suggest unpairing all other devices so that your tablet/phone only knows of the RaceCapture, and thus will only ever connect to it when it becomes available.

'''- WiFi:''' go through the process of enabling WiFi on the RaceCapture and connecting your device to its network (refer to RaceCapture documentation for this procedure). However when you do so pay immediate attention to the screen as you should see a pop up warning there is no internet connection (which is normal, the RaceCapture provides no internet connectivity through its WiFi network). When you see this you MUST click on the pop-up which will bring up a screen that gives you the option to ignore this "issue". Also make sure to leave auto-connection for the network enabled. If you miss this dialogue your tablet/phone will NOT automatically connect to the RaceCapture device, kind of breaking our whole automation theme here. If you miss the pop-up, simply go into your WiFi settings on the tablet/phone and forget the RaceCapture's WiFi network, and start the process of connecting to it again (watching for that pop-up). There might be a way to adjust this setting outside the pop-up but I've not found it. Lastly, forget all other WiFi networks on your device. This prevents your device from connecting to anything other than the RaceCapture unexpectedly. Don't worry, you can always reconnect to a WiFi network manually later, like if you need to update the RaceCapture app.

'''5. SuperSU settings'''

This should be installed through your rooting process. I'm unaware of any Android rooting method that doesn't use it, so I'm assuming you have it, and if not you should stop here (sorry!). In the app in Settings in the Access section set the Default Access to "Grant". This simply lets the other apps use root access without you being prompted all the time, which will get rather annoying during this setup process.

'''6. Secure Settings settings'''

* SYSTEM+ Tab: click "Disabled" to enable the feature (this opens some unique actions for use by the Tasker automation app).

* Options Tab: Expand the "System+" section and make sure all options are enabled with a green check mark on the right (not all of these are needed, but this is the fastest way for me to explain to you). Also expand the "Root" section and enable "Airplane Mode".

'''7. DS Battery Saver settings'''

Set the Profile to "Slumberer".

'''8. Tasker settings'''
This is where we really configure the automation. You can get pretty fancy with this application but I'll be only covering what it takes to accomplish our goals outlined earlier.

'''* Create Tasks: ''' A task is a series of actions to take, which we'll assign to events later. They consist of one or many actions, and those actions have associated parameters. I think creating them is fairly simple and straightforward, requiring being in the Tasks tab, clicking the + symbol in the bottom right, and then entering the information provided below, so I'm going to just outline each task's values here. One tip though is when selecting Actions use the "Filter" option to just type the action name provided here to quickly search as it can be quite confusing to click around the categories to find what you're after.

Name: "Start RC"

Action 1: Launch App

Target: RaceCapture app

Name: "Screen On and Start RC"

Action 1: Secure Settings

Configuration: Actions->WakeDevice, leave defaults for "Screen & Keyboard Lights On" and "1 second"

Action2: Secure Settings

Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "Off"

Name: "Go to Sleep"

Action 1: Secure Settings

Configuration: Root Actions-> Airplane mode, select "On"

Action 2: Go Home

Configuration: Page 0

Action 3: DS Battery Saver

Configuration: ON (Slumberer)

Action 4: Display Timeout (Optional: I like the screen to go black quickly when the car isn't on so as to save battery)

Configuration: 7 seconds, 0 minutes, 0 hours (also optional, this is the lowest screen timeout value we can set)

File:DC 12V Micro USB adapter.jpg

2018-02-25T23:59:06Z

Jpf11: Example of a 12V to 5V Micro USB converter, perhaps used in a car or a boat, to power a Micro USB device like an Android Tablet.

Example of a 12V to 5V Micro USB converter, perhaps used in a car or a boat, to power a Micro USB device like an Android Tablet.

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-25T19:56:35Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) */

RaceCapture Dashboard Tablet Automation

2018-02-25T19:12:23Z

Jpf11: Created page with "= Guide to Automating your RaceCapture Dashboard Tablets (and phones) = For Android devices only currently. Verified on Nvidia Shield K1 and Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 tablets..."

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-23T00:12:28Z

Jpf11:

= Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender =

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Screenshot showing what you can do with your RaceCapture data in RaceRender:'''

[[File:RaceRender Example Output.png]]

'''Source Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' Download the template/profile files referenced in this guide here and extract the files from the archive: [[File:RaceCapture and RaceRender workflow files.zip]]

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' Move the extracted file ''"Project - _6RaceCapture - basic template.rrt"'' to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''4.''' The other extracted file should be named with a filename like "RaceRender Data Profile - RaceCapture*.rrlc", including a date. Use the latest version present if there are multiple. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

[[File:RaceRender synchronization.png]]

Here are some tips to make this easier:
* Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
* Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
* If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input (shown in the examples at the top of this page). Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

[[File:RaceRender trimming.png]]

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

'''10.''' Check the output! I usually have to re-render my video about five times because I miss things or want to tweak things. I may have not quite syncrhonized the video, or maybe gauges were misaligned, or something. Always double/triple check the rendered output.

=== Known Issues ===
* If you find RaceRender performing terribly slow you may be affected by a timing issue in your RaceCapture log. Rarely, usually right in the beginning of a log if it happens, you can have timestamps that are.. out of order. Events that seem to go back in time. RaceRender expects all the timestamps to go in chronological order and when they don't it has a hard time processing the data. The fix is pretty easy. Open the logs and visually inspect the first page's worth of values in the "Utc" column. These values will be really large numbers as they are time in Unix epoch time, but they should normally go up in value (the value is the number of seconds since I believe a date in the 70s, I forget and I'm a Unix professional :D). If you see any going out of order, you can re-order them or simply delete the entire lines since a handful of data lines won't affect your video rendering results much. Alternatively you can use the GEMS conversion script I wrote found in the Autosport Labs Forums here: https://forum.autosportlabs.com/viewtopic.php?t=3731. Just use the initial perl script conversion and use that output file as your input for RaceRender. This works because that script makes sure to re-order any out of order timestamped log entries. This isn't the first suggestion because using the script takes a bit of technical know-how with setting up a Windows Unix environment and getting packages like Perl.

--[[User:Jpf11|Jpf11]] ([[User talk:Jpf11|talk]]) 00:12, 23 June 2017 (UTC)

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T23:10:49Z

Jpf11:

File:RaceRender synchronization.png

2017-06-22T22:35:55Z

Jpf11:

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T22:35:21Z

Jpf11:

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T22:28:09Z

Jpf11:

= Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender =

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Screenshot showing what you can do with your RaceCapture data in RaceRender:'''

[[File:RaceRender Example Output.png]]

'''Source Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' Download the template/profile files referenced in this guide here and extract the files from the archive: [[File:RaceCapture and RaceRender workflow files.zip]]

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' Move the extracted file ''"Project - _6RaceCapture - basic template.rrt"'' to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''4.''' The other extracted file should be named with a filename like "RaceRender Data Profile - RaceCapture*.rrlc", including a date. Use the latest version present if there are multiple. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

[[File:RaceRender syncrhonization.png]]

Here are some tips to make this easier:
* Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
* Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
* If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input (shown in the examples at the top of this page). Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

[[File:RaceRender trimming.png]]

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

'''10.''' Check the output! I usually have to re-render my video about five times because I miss things or want to tweak things. I may have not quite syncrhonized the video, or maybe gauges were misaligned, or something. Always double/triple check the rendered output.

File:RaceRender trimming.png

2017-06-22T22:27:08Z

Jpf11:

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T22:08:30Z

Jpf11: /* Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender */

= Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender =

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Screenshot showing what you can do with your RaceCapture data in RaceRender:'''

[[File:RaceRender Example Output.png]]

'''Source Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' Download the template/profile files referenced in this guide here and extract the files from the archive: [[File:RaceCapture and RaceRender workflow files.zip]]

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' Move the extracted file ''"Project - _6RaceCapture - basic template.rrt"'' to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''4.''' The other extracted file should be named with a filename like "RaceRender Data Profile - RaceCapture*.rrlc", including a date. Use the latest version present if there are multiple. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

[[File:RaceRender syncrhonization.png]]

Here are some tips to make this easier:
* Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
* Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
* If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input (shown in the examples at the top of this page). Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

'''10.''' Check the output! I usually have to re-render my video about five times because I miss things or want to tweak things. I may have not quite syncrhonized the video, or maybe gauges were misaligned, or something. Always double/triple check the rendered output.

File:RaceCapture and RaceRender workflow files.zip

2017-06-22T22:03:18Z

Jpf11:

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T22:00:52Z

Jpf11:

= Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender =

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Screenshot showing what you can do with your RaceCapture data in RaceRender:'''

[[File:RaceRender Example Output.png]]

'''Source Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' '''(Optional)''' Download the basic RaceCapture template found here to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''3.''' Download the RaceRender Data Profile found here. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

[[File:RaceRender syncrhonization.png]]

Here are some tips to make this easier:
* Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
* Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
* If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input (shown in the examples at the top of this page). Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

'''10.''' Check the output! I usually have to re-render my video about five times because I miss things or want to tweak things. I may have not quite syncrhonized the video, or maybe gauges were misaligned, or something. Always double/triple check the rendered output.

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T21:58:24Z

Jpf11:

= Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender =

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

Here's an example showing what you can do with RaceRender and your RaceCapture Data:

[[File:RaceRender Example Output.png]]

''Source Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' '''(Optional)''' Download the basic RaceCapture template found here to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''3.''' Download the RaceRender Data Profile found here. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

[[File:RaceRender syncrhonization.png]]

Here are some tips to make this easier:
* Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
* Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
* If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input (shown in the examples at the top of this page). Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

'''10.''' Check the output! I usually have to re-render my video about five times because I miss things or want to tweak things. I may have not quite syncrhonized the video, or maybe gauges were misaligned, or something. Always double/triple check the rendered output.

File:RaceRender Example Output.png

2017-06-22T21:49:49Z

Jpf11:

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T21:46:21Z

Jpf11: /* Basic workflow */

= Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender =

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Example Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' '''(Optional)''' Download the basic RaceCapture template found here to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''3.''' Download the RaceRender Data Profile found here. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

Here are some tips to make this easier:
- Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
- Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
- If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input. Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

'''10.''' Check the output! I usually have to re-render my video about five times because I miss things or want to tweak things. I may have not quite syncrhonized the video, or maybe gauges were misaligned, or something. Always double/triple check the rendered output.

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T21:29:51Z

Jpf11: /* Basic workflow */

= Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender =

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Example Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' '''(Optional)''' Download the basic RaceCapture template found here to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''3.''' Download the RaceRender Data Profile found here. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally as the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file.

[[File:RaceRender video layout screen - data configuration.png]]

This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile.

[[File:RaceRender Configure Input File.png]]

Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

Here are some tips to make this easier:
- Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
- Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
- If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input. Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)

RaceCapture RaceRender Guide

2017-06-22T21:27:08Z

Jpf11:

= Guide to getting your RaceCapture data into your video with RaceRender =

'''''RaceRender''''' is a popular video data overlay tool which is great for racing enthusiasts in creating amazing compositions using raw data with video. In this guide we'll explain a basic workflow for how you can get your RaceCapture data overlayed onto just about any video source, be it from your smartphone, GoPro, or other digital camera.

RaceRender software can be found at http://racerender.com

'''Example Video:'''

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkKPAN-c_mE}}

'''These instructions have been verified with the following software versions:'''

RaceRender 3.5.8 on Windows 10

=== '''Setup''' ===

'''1.''' Install RaceRender 3.5.8 or newer

'''2.''' '''(Optional)''' Download the basic RaceCapture template found here to where RaceRender3 Templates are stored. On Windows this is:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3\Templates
where "USERNAME" is the Windows user you are logged in as.

'''3.''' Download the RaceRender Data Profile found here. This can be saved wherever you like but I suggest:
C:\Users\USERNAME\Documents\RaceRender 3
Remember this location for later.

=== '''Basic workflow''' ===

'''1.''' Open RaceRender

'''2.''' '''(Optional - skip this step if you're an experienced RaceRender user and already have a layout you'd like to use)''' If you downloaded the basic template in step 2 of setup you can choose it from the initial New Project Menu where you can select a New Project Template. It should be listed as "'''RaceCapture - basic template'''". You may need to scroll down to see it as it will likely be the last option.

[[File:RaceRender new project template screen.png]]

This template sets up the following basic data displays:
* Track Map with location
* Current Lap Time
* Current Lap Number
* Speed
* RPM
* G-Force
* Gear

'''3.''' '''(Optional)''' If you did use the basic template here then you will be prompted to select input files for the Video and Data. Simply select your those with the Add Video File and Add Data File buttons as appropriate, and then click OK. Your Layout will appear along with a Project Setup Wizard. I would close the wizard personally and the rest of the instructions assume you did :)

'''4.''' Now we need to set up the data. In the upper right of the RaceRender window is a section for Input Files which will have both your video file and your data file. Double Click on your data file. This brings open the Configure Input File screen.

'''5.''' On the Configure Input File screen in the upper right you will see a button for Import Data Profile. Click it, and in the file selection screen that opens find and select the RaceRander Data Profile downloaded in Step 3 of the Setup instructions above. This data profile will do basic setup of RaceCapture data to key RaceRender's inputs, like g-force, rpm, gps coordinates, etc. It won't map Throttle position or any other custom data inputs you may have.

'''''Note about the Transmission Gear input:''''' The profile here sets this input to "Calculate". This means RaceRender will look at the data and try to figure out what gear you are in. If you actually have a gear position data input then change this input to that field. Otherwise read on. Calculate is for those that don't have data on gear position. It works better when there is lots of data in your log file that covers all the gears you use in the car. This can be glitchy, and sometimes doesn't work quite right. Example: If your log file only covers when you're driving in 2nd and up, RaceRender will think 2nd gear is 1st and display it as such. In these cases I will use the Calculated Fields at the bottom of the Configure Input File screen to fudge the gear value, like adding +1 to the Transmission Gear.

'''6.''' Now that we have the data fields mapped we need to synchronize the data to the video. The easiest way to do this is by using the Synchronization Tool. The button is just below the Input Files section of the main RaceRender video preview screen. Clicking it will open a popup for you to adjust starting position of either the video file or the data file, whichever has more data time-wise than the other at the start. This takes some finesse and can be quite tedious to get quite right but should be self-explanatory after playing around. You'll be playing with starting positions and offsets, and then in the main preview screen using the video playback controls at the bottom to see how things are looking by watching a bit of your previewed video.

Here are some tips to make this easier:
- Watch your video and gauge where you are on your course. Assuming you know the course you should be able to figure out where you are. Then try to line this up with the position shown in the track layout (which since we set up the data mappings should be showing your gps position).
- Use major events. Things like specific corners where you brake really hard, or places you know you shifted from one gear to another and can see the shift happen in your video. Look at the data showing on the screen like speed and rpm, and get them to match what you see is happening in the video. These help you not only get close, but can help you really fine tune the synchronization.
- If you're useing a GoPro try RaceCapture's feature for automatically starting GoPro recording when datalogging begins. This will get your data VERY close from the start!

'''7.''' '''(Optional)''' Add some more visual displays of your data! Add more gauges and map them to data fields captured via your RaceCapture. A great one is to add a Throttle gauge as most people have this input. Experiment! You can do this with the Add button on in the Display Objects section (bottom right) of the preview window. Once you select a gauge face type, select the new object in the Display Objects list and double-click to open its properties. In the properties you'll need to change the Input to the appropriate field from your RaceCapture. Additional Configuration might be required.

'''8.''' Trim your video to just what you want rendered in your final output, like perhaps your fastest lap. On the preview screen use the video controls to figure out just where you want to start and end your video. To the right of those controls are two flags, one green and one red. Find the start position in your video preview, pause the preview playback, then click the green flag to select the start position. Do the same with the red flag to select the end position.

'''9.''' Render your video! In the File menu select Create Video File from Project. You may be prompted to save your project, I would do so in case you realize you need to fix some things and re-render your video. After that you'll be brought to the Create Video File screen. Here's what settings I personally use:

* File Format: MPEG-4 H.264
* Aspect Ratio & Workspace: 16:9 Wide-Screen (because this matches my the video format I use with my GoPro, suggest changing this to match your camera)
* Picture Size (Height): 1080 (again, this matches my original video format and I don't like to lose resolution for no reason)
* Video Frame Rate: 60 FPS (also matches my original framerate. Always set this as high as your source framerate)
* Audio Channels: 16-bit Stereo
* Audio Sample Rate: 48000 Hz (this is what my GoPro records its videos at)
* Picture Scaling Quality: Maximum (I want the best quality output. RaceRender always loses some video quality in my opinion, arguably due to poor renderers, but using this setting minimizes that)
* Video Bitrate: 64000kbps (totally arbitrary but I kept going up and up until the video quality looked "good enough" to me. results in a big file on disk but these days I don't care about disk space much)
* Audio Bitrate: 128kbps (this is what my GoPro is recording audio at. Not great to be honest.)