Podium Driver Data Analysis: Difference between revisions

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[[File:Importing Customize dashboard.png]]
[[File:Importing Customize dashboard.png]]


From here, you can add gauges or presetted dashboard based on your needs. For example:


[[File:Adding Guage.png]]


The first thing you want to do is find a few of your fastest laps and click on 3 of them.  Ideally they will be laps close to each other as what we are analyzing is your consistency.  Ideally, if you have a pro driver or coach who can set some reference data for you, click on your two fastest laps and their fastest lap.  This will really show you where you can find time.  Click on the fastest lap last, as the last lap you click on is used as the reference lap for the Time Gap Graph.  Also make sure your graphs are by Distance and not Time. 
By clicking Add you can import whole dashboards.
Now hide all the graphs we don't care about except Speed, Time Gap, AxcelX, AxcelY.  You can keep RPM, Gear, Pitch and Yaw if you want.
Customize the graphs so that the Min and Max values make sense for the data shown and give you the best resolution.  Ie.  If your car only rev's to 6000RPM, but max on the graph is 10000, maybe change the max to 6500.


<youtube>bWIDZwZfT2Y</youtube>
[[File:Adding Guage 2.png]]


===Speed Trace Graph - Find the inconsistencies===
Or click on Add gauge
Looking at the Speed graph, see where the areas of most inconsistency is.  These are the turns (including braking zones) where the speed trace lines don't match up, or overlay on top of each other.  You have different speeds through these sections with each lap.  Looking at the data, you are trying to find out which sections you need to work on, which ones you are giving up the most time on (lowest hanging fruit), and then figure out why you where slower and how you can consistently be faster there. 


[[Image:PodiumSpeedTrace.jpg|500px]]
* To create a Speed Chart, add a Line Chart gauge and set it to the Speed channel.
* The Time Gap Graph is also available in the gauges section and can be added in the same way.


===Time Gap Graph - Find the low hanging fruit===
[[File:Adding Guages.png]]
Looking at the Time Gap graph shows you exactly how much time you are losing (or gaining) in a section. Look for the sections where the line rises or falls sharply.  These are the areas you need to focus on and can learn from.  The sections with the most amount of time lost (how far the dip is), are the sections you want to work on first (low hanging fruit).  If your fastest lap was the last selected, it should be the reference lap.  When the Time Gap line on another lap falls sharply, you are losing time in that section, when the line rises sharply, you are gaining some time back.  You need to pay attention to both areas.  Where the line rises means you probably could have gone faster there on your fastest lap. 


To see how much time you are losing in a section, place the cursor where the time gap starts to dip or rise rapidly and note the current Time Gap for that lap. Then move the cursor to where the time gap line starts to level off and note the Time Gap for that lap at that point.  The difference between those two Time Gap times, is how much time you are losing in the section.  The sections with the largest time lost are the ones you should work on first.
This flexibility allows you to build a dashboard that highlights the data most important to your analysis. For clearer analysis, make sure your graphs are set to display data by Distance instead of Time. You can switch this easily by double-clicking the time icon shown on the chart. In addition to speed and time gap, you can also add other useful graphs such as RPM, Gear, Pitch, and Yaw, depending on the level of detail and type of insights you want to focus on.


[[Image:PodiumTimeGap.jpg|500px]] [[Image:PodiumTimeGapDiff.jpg|500px]]
=Speed Trace Graph - Find the inconsistencies=
When looking at the Speed graph, check for spots where the speed lines from different laps don’t match up. These are usually turns or braking zones. If the lines are not on top of each other, it means your speed was different in those sections from lap to lap
These differences show the areas where you are losing the most time. Focus on those sections first. Then, figure out why you were slower there and how you can drive more consistently and faster in those parts of the track.


===The Why - Analyzing the data===
[[File:Speed Trace Graph - Find the inconsistencies.png]]
Now that we know which sections you need to work on and which of those sections you should work on first, we need to analyze why you were slower in those sections. Go back to the speed trace graph and look at the section you are losing the most time on.  Look where the difference starts happening.  Is it in the braking zone, mid corner, or track out? 


If it is in the braking zone, are you braking too early, too little, too hard, is your pressure inconsistent throughout the braking zone. Are you not transitioning from throttle to full brakes fast enough, is your heel-toe messing up your braking pressure (check Accel graph as well) 
=Time Gap Graph=
The Time Gap graph shows exactly how much time you gain or lose in each part of the track.


If mid corner speed; are you slowing down too much, did you not slow down enough and overcooked the turn a little, are you coming off the brakes at the right time, Is your turn in point the same, did you make it to the apex, how is your transition back to throttle (check Accel graph as well).
* When the line drops sharply, it means you are losing time in that section.
* When the line rises sharply, it means you are gaining time back.


If corner exit speed (and speed down following straight) is down; how was your mid corner speed, when did you get back onto throttle, when did you get to full throttle (check Accel graph), did you hit the apex and track out, what were your shift points (also check RPM, Gear, Track Map and/or Accel graphs).
The biggest dips show where you are losing the most time, these are the areas you should work on first (the “low-hanging fruit”). If you select your fastest lap first, it becomes the '''reference lap'''. That means the graph is showing how the other laps compare to it.


[[Image:PodiumBrakeTransition.jpg|500px]] '''Pro Tip: ''click image and read description to learn how to read the speed trace to see the differences between a pro driver and an advanced driver in the same car. '''''
To measure how much time you lost:
# Place the cursor where the time gap line starts to dip or rise. Note the Time Gap value there.
# Move the cursor to where the line levels off again. Note the new Time Gap value.
# The difference between those two values is the amount of time you lost (or gained) in that section.


=='''General Data Analysis tips'''==
Focus on the sections with the '''largest time losses first''', since improving those will give you the biggest gains.
Unless comparing to a pro driver, you only need to look at one lap at a time for this, use your best lap.  Compare to your second best lap to see if they are similar to rule out an anomaly.


==='''Braking'''=== 
[[File:Time Gap Graph.png|780px]]
Look at the Accel graph that shows acceleration and braking. This will either be AccelX or AccelY depending on how you mounted and setup your RCP.  You can tell which is your acceleration/braking graph because braking is always a much larger curve than acceleration.  Look for a graph with 0.2-0.3g's one side (acceleration) and over 1.0 g's on the other side (braking). 


====Threshold braking - using all the tires available traction====
=The Why - Analyzing the Data=
Your max braking G's should be similar to your max turning G's (within about  0.2g).  If they are not close, it means you are not using your tires full potential for which ever graph is lower.  Ie, if you are turning at 1.4g's, but your braking is only 1.0g, you can brake harder.


[[Image:PodiumThresholdBraking.jpg|500px]]
Once you know where you are losing time, the next step is to figure out '''why'''. Go back to the speed trace and check the section with the biggest loss. Look carefully at where the difference starts, is it in the braking zone, mid-corner, or corner exit?


====Throttle to Brakes transition====
* '''Braking zone'''
Looking at the acceleration/braking graph, find the areas where you are braking hard for a while.  Look at how you transition from throttle to brakes.  It should be a very immediate and steep transition.  If it dips down a little bit and then falls sharply, it means you are coasting or covering the brakes before really applying them.  In almost all cases, you should try to go from full throttle to full brakes on these larger braking zones.  
** Did you brake too early, too light, or too hard?
** Was your braking pressure inconsistent?
** Did you take too long to go from throttle to full brakes?
** Did heel-toe affect your braking pressure? (Check the Accel graph too.)


You can also see this in the speed trace.  As you are accelerating it should be slowly rising and then immediately drop fast when you brake.  If after accelerating, it levels out or drops slowly, before the real deceleration begins, it means they were either coasting or just lightly adding brakes before actually getting on the brakes hard.
* '''Mid-corner'''
** Did you slow down too much?
** Or not enough, causing you to “overcook” the turn?
** Did you release the brakes at the right time?
** Was your turn-in point correct, and did you reach the apex?
** How smooth was your throttle transition? (Check the Accel graph too.)


[[Image:PodiumBrakeTransition.jpg|500px]]
* '''Corner exit / following straight'''
** Was your mid-corner speed too low?
** When did you get back on the throttle?
** How quickly did you reach full throttle? (Check the Accel graph.)
** Did you hit the apex and use all the track on exit?
** Were your gear shifts and RPM points correct? (Also check RPM, Gear, Track Map, or Accel graphs.)


====Consistent braking pressure throughout max brake zone====
By breaking it down this way, you can see exactly what caused the time loss and work on fixing it.
Imagine drawing a straight line from the top of the where the braking starts as the line drops fast, to where the line starts to level off.  Your braking trace should be very close to this straight line.  That would mean you applied the brakes quickly and consistently throughout the braking zone which is what we want.  If your braking g-force trace is bowed in, that means you got on the brakes hard initially and then let off as you got closer to the turn in point.  If your braking trace is bowed out, that means you initially got on the brakes a little light and then added more braking pressure as you got closer to the apex.  In both cases, start braking a little later in order to force yourself to brake evenly throughout the brake zone, you should still be coming off the brakes at the same time and not later.


You can also see this in the speed trace.  The transition from acceleration to braking should look almost like a 90* angle.  It should then be a straight line down.  If it is rounded right before the real deceleration starts, or the line is not straight, you need to work on braking later and harder.
[[File:The Why - Analyzing the Data.png]]


[[Image:PodiumBrakingZones.jpg|500px]]
=General Data Analysis Tips=
If you are not comparing yourself to a pro driver, just focus '''on one lap at a time'''. Start with your '''best lap''' and compare it to your '''second-best lap'''. If they are similar, it means your lap was consistent. If they are very different, your best lap might have been an anomaly (a “lucky” lap).


====Heel-Toe====
=Braking=
Look for a little blip in the braking trace. Or look for the speed trace to fall sharply, start to even out just the tiniest bit, then continue to fall sharply. This is where you are heel-toeing and let off a little brake pressure as you did so. You would need to work on your heel-toe without effecting the braking pressure. You can use the RPM trace to see exactly where you heel-toed under braking.
Check the '''Accel graph''' (either AccelX or AccelY depending on how your system is set up). This graph shows acceleration and braking.
* Braking always shows as a '''much larger curve''' than acceleration.
* Normally, you’ll see about '''0.2 - 0.3 g''' on the acceleration side, and over '''1.0 g''' on the braking side.


[[Image:PodiumBrakingHeelToe.jpg|500px]]
==Threshold Braking - Using All the Tire Grip==
* Your '''maximum braking g-force''' should be close to your '''maximum cornering g-force''' (within about 0.2 g).
* If they are not close, you are not using the tires’ full grip.
** Example: If your car corners at '''1.4 g''' but your braking is only '''1.0 g''', it means you could brake harder.


====Consistent braking at all braking zones====
[[File:Threshold Braking - Using All the Tire Grip.png]]
Now draw a straight line through all of your major braking zones (both on the speed trace and on the accel/braking graph).  Assuming the track conditions are the same (not going up or down a hill) at the brake zones, all these lines for each graph should be almost perfectly parallel to each other.  This would mean you are using the brakes consistently at every braking zone.  If any are less steep than others, you can get on the brakes harder in those less steep sections.


[[Image:PodiumBrakingZones.jpg|500px]]
==Throttle to Brakes Transition==


====Brake release and trail braking====
On the acceleration/braking graph, look at the areas where you brake hard for a long time. Pay attention to how you move from throttle to brakes.
If you have a pro or coach lap time to compare too, take a look at how they are transitioning off of the brakes and onto throttle at each section (will vary by turn) compared to your fastest lap.  Are they coming off the brakes sooner and transitioning to part throttle or maintenance throttle,  are they quickly rolling back to full throttle in that section.  Where in the turn are they doing all this.  Are they braking later and trail braking?  You can see trail braking where after max braking g's, the g-forces slowly come down for a while before dropping back towards 0g.  
* The transition should be '''sharp and immediate.'''
* If the line dips gently before dropping sharply, it means you were '''coasting''' (no throttle, no brakes) or just lightly pressing the brakes before applying them properly.
* In most cases, you should go straight from '''full throttle to full brakes''' in these heavy braking zones.


==='''Lateral G's'''===
You can also see this on the '''speed trace''':
Look at your lateral g's. The max g-forces should be the same left to right. If not you either need to work on turning to that side (most US tracks are clockwise so we get a lot more practice turning right than we do turning left), or it could be indicative of a setup problem with the car.
* While accelerating, the line should rise gradually.
* When braking, it should drop suddenly and steeply.
* If instead it levels off or drops slowly before the sharp deceleration, it means you were coasting or braking too lightly before actually hitting the brakes hard.
 
[[File:Throttle to Brakes Transition.png]]
 
==What to Look For in the Braking Trace==
'''* Ideal:'''
** The g-force (or brake pressure) line should look like a straight diagonal drop when connecting brake application to release.
** The transition from throttle to brake in the speed trace should resemble a sharp corner (almost 90°), not a rounded curve.
** This shows fast, consistent, and maximum-effort braking.
 
'''* Common Issues:'''
** '''Bowed In (Convex Curve):''' Braking hard at first, then easing off too soon.
*** Problem: Giving up braking performance and slowing too much before the corner.
*** Fix: Brake slightly later and aim to maintain consistent pressure.
 
** '''Bowed Out (Concave Curve):''' Braking too gently at first, then pressing harder closer to turn-in.
*** Problem: Wasting track distance and reducing stability.
*** Fix: Commit to firm braking earlier and more decisively.
 
==Actionable Adjustment==
* Start braking a '''touch later''' to encourage yourself to apply maximum pressure quickly.
* Focus on consistency: come off the brakes at the same point as usual, but use the braking zone more effectively.
* Cross-check with speed trace: a straight, steep line down is the goal
 
Together with your speed trace analysis (where inconsistencies show up lap to lap), this braking trace evaluation helps pinpoint exactly which braking zones cost you the most time.
 
[[File:Actionable Adjustment.png]]
 
==Heel-Toe Analysis==
 
On the braking trace, watch for a small dip or wobble in pressure, this is usually where you blipped the throttle. On the speed trace, it shows as a sharp drop that briefly flattens before continuing down. In the RPM trace, you’ll see a quick spike from the downshift.
 
[[File:Heel-Toe Analysis.png]]
 
==Consistent Braking Across Zones==
On both the speed trace and accel/braking graph, the steep drops in each braking zone should look nearly parallel. If one zone’s line is less steep, it means you braked lighter there. Aim for all zones to match, same slope, same consistency, to maximize braking performance.
 
[[File:Consistent Braking Across Zones.png]]
 
==Brake Release & Trail Braking==
Compare your brake release to a coach/pro lap.
'''Note:''' if they come off brakes sooner, transition to throttle earlier, or roll to full throttle quicker. Trail braking shows as a gradual fade in braking G’s after peak, tapering to 0g, smooth release while turning.
 
==Lateral G’s==
Look at your lateral G’s on the graph. Your max G-forces should be the same in both left and right turns. If they are not equal, it means you either need to work on your technique turning in that direction (most US tracks are clockwise so we gave more practice turning right than left), or there could be a setup issue with the car.

Latest revision as of 05:12, 8 October 2025

Getting Started

You can use Podium.live to find areas on the track and analyze your driving techniques to improve on in order to reduce your lap times and become a better driver.

Installing the app

Windows / OSX

Get the latest version of the Podium app from the downloads page

Android / iOS

Setup and Configure Podium

After logging in, you’ll be welcomed by the home page interface.

The main sections include:

  • My Following: View the list of users whom you follow.
  • My Events: See the events you’ve created.
  • My Tracks: Browse tracks you’ve participated.
  • My Devices: Manage and view the devices you’ve registered.

In the Events tab, you’ll find:

  • Live Stream Events: Ongoing sessions from other users.
  • Recent Events: A history of completed events.
  • Upcoming Events: A schedule of events that are planned.

In the Tracks tab, you can:

  • Search for all tracks available in Podium.
  • Explore events that have taken place at each track.

When you select a device, either your own or another user’s device, the data appears in the Dashboard. Here you can:

  • Select up to three laps of your choice for comparison.
  • Stream and analyze the data in real time using customizable dashboards.

This is where you can dive into detailed performance insights and make the most out of your racing data. Start by picking a few of your fastest laps, usually 3 laps that are close in time, since we want to check your consistency. If you have data from a pro driver or coach, choose your two fastest laps and their fastest lap. This will clearly show you where you can improve.

Make sure you click on your fastest lap first, because the first lap you select becomes the reference lap in the Time Gap Graph. In the app, you have the option to either import a preset dashboard or fully customize your own. To do this, click on the settings icon in the top-right corner.

From here, you can add gauges or presetted dashboard based on your needs. For example:

By clicking Add you can import whole dashboards.

Or click on Add gauge

  • To create a Speed Chart, add a Line Chart gauge and set it to the Speed channel.
  • The Time Gap Graph is also available in the gauges section and can be added in the same way.

This flexibility allows you to build a dashboard that highlights the data most important to your analysis. For clearer analysis, make sure your graphs are set to display data by Distance instead of Time. You can switch this easily by double-clicking the time icon shown on the chart. In addition to speed and time gap, you can also add other useful graphs such as RPM, Gear, Pitch, and Yaw, depending on the level of detail and type of insights you want to focus on.

Speed Trace Graph - Find the inconsistencies

When looking at the Speed graph, check for spots where the speed lines from different laps don’t match up. These are usually turns or braking zones. If the lines are not on top of each other, it means your speed was different in those sections from lap to lap These differences show the areas where you are losing the most time. Focus on those sections first. Then, figure out why you were slower there and how you can drive more consistently and faster in those parts of the track.

Time Gap Graph

The Time Gap graph shows exactly how much time you gain or lose in each part of the track.

  • When the line drops sharply, it means you are losing time in that section.
  • When the line rises sharply, it means you are gaining time back.

The biggest dips show where you are losing the most time, these are the areas you should work on first (the “low-hanging fruit”). If you select your fastest lap first, it becomes the reference lap. That means the graph is showing how the other laps compare to it.

To measure how much time you lost:

  1. Place the cursor where the time gap line starts to dip or rise. Note the Time Gap value there.
  2. Move the cursor to where the line levels off again. Note the new Time Gap value.
  3. The difference between those two values is the amount of time you lost (or gained) in that section.

Focus on the sections with the largest time losses first, since improving those will give you the biggest gains.

The Why - Analyzing the Data

Once you know where you are losing time, the next step is to figure out why. Go back to the speed trace and check the section with the biggest loss. Look carefully at where the difference starts, is it in the braking zone, mid-corner, or corner exit?

  • Braking zone
    • Did you brake too early, too light, or too hard?
    • Was your braking pressure inconsistent?
    • Did you take too long to go from throttle to full brakes?
    • Did heel-toe affect your braking pressure? (Check the Accel graph too.)
  • Mid-corner
    • Did you slow down too much?
    • Or not enough, causing you to “overcook” the turn?
    • Did you release the brakes at the right time?
    • Was your turn-in point correct, and did you reach the apex?
    • How smooth was your throttle transition? (Check the Accel graph too.)
  • Corner exit / following straight
    • Was your mid-corner speed too low?
    • When did you get back on the throttle?
    • How quickly did you reach full throttle? (Check the Accel graph.)
    • Did you hit the apex and use all the track on exit?
    • Were your gear shifts and RPM points correct? (Also check RPM, Gear, Track Map, or Accel graphs.)

By breaking it down this way, you can see exactly what caused the time loss and work on fixing it.

General Data Analysis Tips

If you are not comparing yourself to a pro driver, just focus on one lap at a time. Start with your best lap and compare it to your second-best lap. If they are similar, it means your lap was consistent. If they are very different, your best lap might have been an anomaly (a “lucky” lap).

Braking

Check the Accel graph (either AccelX or AccelY depending on how your system is set up). This graph shows acceleration and braking.

  • Braking always shows as a much larger curve than acceleration.
  • Normally, you’ll see about 0.2 - 0.3 g on the acceleration side, and over 1.0 g on the braking side.

Threshold Braking - Using All the Tire Grip

  • Your maximum braking g-force should be close to your maximum cornering g-force (within about 0.2 g).
  • If they are not close, you are not using the tires’ full grip.
    • Example: If your car corners at 1.4 g but your braking is only 1.0 g, it means you could brake harder.

Throttle to Brakes Transition

On the acceleration/braking graph, look at the areas where you brake hard for a long time. Pay attention to how you move from throttle to brakes.

  • The transition should be sharp and immediate.
  • If the line dips gently before dropping sharply, it means you were coasting (no throttle, no brakes) or just lightly pressing the brakes before applying them properly.
  • In most cases, you should go straight from full throttle to full brakes in these heavy braking zones.

You can also see this on the speed trace:

  • While accelerating, the line should rise gradually.
  • When braking, it should drop suddenly and steeply.
  • If instead it levels off or drops slowly before the sharp deceleration, it means you were coasting or braking too lightly before actually hitting the brakes hard.

What to Look For in the Braking Trace

* Ideal:

    • The g-force (or brake pressure) line should look like a straight diagonal drop when connecting brake application to release.
    • The transition from throttle to brake in the speed trace should resemble a sharp corner (almost 90°), not a rounded curve.
    • This shows fast, consistent, and maximum-effort braking.

* Common Issues:

    • Bowed In (Convex Curve): Braking hard at first, then easing off too soon.
      • Problem: Giving up braking performance and slowing too much before the corner.
      • Fix: Brake slightly later and aim to maintain consistent pressure.
    • Bowed Out (Concave Curve): Braking too gently at first, then pressing harder closer to turn-in.
      • Problem: Wasting track distance and reducing stability.
      • Fix: Commit to firm braking earlier and more decisively.

Actionable Adjustment

  • Start braking a touch later to encourage yourself to apply maximum pressure quickly.
  • Focus on consistency: come off the brakes at the same point as usual, but use the braking zone more effectively.
  • Cross-check with speed trace: a straight, steep line down is the goal

Together with your speed trace analysis (where inconsistencies show up lap to lap), this braking trace evaluation helps pinpoint exactly which braking zones cost you the most time.

Heel-Toe Analysis

On the braking trace, watch for a small dip or wobble in pressure, this is usually where you blipped the throttle. On the speed trace, it shows as a sharp drop that briefly flattens before continuing down. In the RPM trace, you’ll see a quick spike from the downshift.

Consistent Braking Across Zones

On both the speed trace and accel/braking graph, the steep drops in each braking zone should look nearly parallel. If one zone’s line is less steep, it means you braked lighter there. Aim for all zones to match, same slope, same consistency, to maximize braking performance.

Brake Release & Trail Braking

Compare your brake release to a coach/pro lap. Note: if they come off brakes sooner, transition to throttle earlier, or roll to full throttle quicker. Trail braking shows as a gradual fade in braking G’s after peak, tapering to 0g, smooth release while turning.

Lateral G’s

Look at your lateral G’s on the graph. Your max G-forces should be the same in both left and right turns. If they are not equal, it means you either need to work on your technique turning in that direction (most US tracks are clockwise so we gave more practice turning right than left), or there could be a setup issue with the car.